Posted by Bill Martinelli [ 24.93.18.98 ] on March 31, 2004 at 23:10:11:

In Reply to: Table saw recommendations? posted by crazychile on March 29, 2004 at 07:47:09:

You need lots of space to work with sheet goods. Space is a big help. Being cramped in or unstable just makes it harder. For all intents and purpose you could bolt a skilsaw to a sheet of plywood, mounted upside down on horses with a 2x4 for a rip fence! Course that only works for a while. Cast iron seems to hold its shape a little better than lumber.

I've seen guys with 2000 dollar saw that cant cut a square board. I've seen setups with the little portable 10" saw's basically embedded into a huge infeed and outfeed table. Will something like this last as long as a Unisaw or similar? no of course not. But it can do a super job when you put your mind to it and you don't have a ton of bread to shake out for a big saw, or a bigger slider.

I think I found the Picher in the freezer...

If your not precutting your sheets before you cut finished panels your going to need 18' of space. 8' out of the blade and 8' in front plus 2' to stand. not to mention room to store sheets and move them around. Its nice to have a 4x8 table for an outfeed. Nice to have close to that for an infeed table too. This could give you some nice flat areas for assembly when your all done cutting for a while.

Blades are worth more than you might think. Anything from a home center is not going to make nice cuts for you. Chip out and wavy kerfs really suck in 50 dollar a sheet oak. Can get you pretty depressed in 120 dollar a sheet walnut. and If you have some nice Mapa or Teak at 175-200 a sheet, that 40 dollar blade is just a stepping stone to suicide.

Lots of high dollar commercial blades but there are a few available that are affordable for home shops. Forrest used to be only commercial now for a 100 bucks you can get one almost any place. CMT isn't bad but get dull quick. Freud? save your money. They are only a nice blade till you use a blade. Lately I use Amana blades. The 80 tooth will crosscut sheet veneer as well as a underscore slider does. (cant go as fast though) The 40 tooth blade is usually on the saw since the 80 tooth chokes with anything over 3/4" and has one purpose only, sheets. Get a deep gullet rip blade if your going to rip up a lot of glue joints.

The main jist here is it takes some skill to cut straight, clean, square panels from any saw. If your trying to strong arm a full sheet around a little saw with one of those cute roller things,, chances are your going to get hurt. And mom said it wouldn't be fun when you loose an eye right?

Have some nice tables for the small saws, Keep things solid and ridged with out flexing and bounce. Get a good blade that cuts clean and straight. Thin kerf blades have a purpose. You don't need one.
Wax your tables and saw top. So you cant afford an Altendorf, at least make it so the board doesn't stick to an old rusty saw top.
Tune up your saw so the blade is square to the miter slot, fence, etc. Lots of good articles on how to tune up your saw.

Practice. Patience. work calmly. enjoy what you do.

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