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Re: 4 Pi Build in San Luis Obispo - Parts Arrived, Got a Router Jig [message #93364 is a reply to message #93009] Thu, 25 March 2021 12:12 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
alexg is currently offline  alexg
Messages: 17
Registered: June 2019
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It has been a few weeks since my original post. Somehow, when I do projects, audio and otherwise I seem to forget just how difficult it is to find time to work on stuff. In the planning phase I envision myself working away, continuously until the project is complete. Or, actually getting an entire Saturday to myself to focus on a project and make significant progress. Fat chance! The reality is that my projects are filled with late night and early morning sessions spread over several months. And of course, just when I find an opening to hunker down and get stuff done one of my kids will start crying or call out for a "milky" or get up ridiculously early on the very same day that I decide to get up early and want to be read to.

Anyway, Wayne, thanks responding to my last post.

The parts arrived at the end of February. Everything was in good order and well packed. Crossovers are top notch. Good quality boards, nice lay-out, and clean solder joints. I went with standard capacitors and resistors but opted to upgrade the inductors to the 15awg version. As far as upgrades go, Wayne has an article in the FAQ section of the forum called "Upgrades." As the title suggests, it talks about the available upgrades and their benefits including which make the greatest impact. It sounds like upgrading the inductors delivers the most noticeable improvement as far as the crossovers components go. For the drivers I will be using the B&C DEC250 for the compression driver and the JBL 2226H for the woofer. Based on what I have read on the various forums, available product reviews, and on this forum, the driver upgrades are a "no brainer."

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I mentioned previously that my goal is to recess the drivers and horns but that I wasn't sure how to go about handling the horns. For the JBL 2226H I will use my Jasper circle jig. For the horns, my neighbor had a really great solution for me. As it turns out, he is slightly more than obsessed with extruded aluminum framing. His entire garage, shop, and work van are filled with furniture and components made from extruded aluminum not to mention the entertainment center in his living room and the desk, printer stand, and bookshelves in his home office. He lent me a router jig that he made using the same.

The jig is comprised of 4 lengths of 2060 extruded v-slot aluminum framing and a handful of the L-brackets that are designed to work with this material. At the end of the day you get a jig that is adjustable but sturdy.

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I made a couple of practice runs and the jig works great. I do need to figure out how to handle the corners because the finished radius that you get with this jig is slightly smaller/tighter than the radius of the corners on the horn. Unless someone has a suggestion I may just use some kind of wood filler to fill in the difference and sand it down. My plan is to use veneer so I should be able to cover it up nicely. There is a product that my cabinet guy introduced me to a few years back that is similar to Bondo. I have used it on several occasions but can't quite remember the name. It comes in a black can with bright orange writing and is available at Home Depot, Lowes, etc.... I will include the name in my next post.

Got a couple of questions.

1) Is there any additional benefit to adding dampening to the horns? Based on what I could find in the forum, there is not and the "care guide" that comes with the horns states that the abs material provides excellent dampening. However, I do see that some people do it anyway and swear by it.

2) For the flanking subs I am will be using 2, 15" Dayton Drivers from Parts Express and 2 of the Denovo 3.0 Cubic/Ft Sub enclosures. I plan to port the enclosures. My question is, as far as flanking subs go, if the driver is facing forward and I do not have room for a port in front, is it better to position the ports in the back or have them firing down to the floor? If the back is the way to go is it better to mount them high or low? Since I am adding the ports myself, I can add them wherever is best.

3) I am thinking to finish the speakers in a Walnut veneer. Does anyone have recommendations for wood veneer? Brands that have worked well? Where to buy? Retailers and/or brands to avoid? Your input would be much appreciated.

4) What size screws would you recommend for the JBL Drivers?

Thanks in advance!
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