Bug screens [message #35637] |
Fri, 22 March 2002 07:55 |
Garland
Messages: 269 Registered: May 2009
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Grand Master |
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I've read somewhere recently on the advantage of removing the screen on the compression drivers as these add some degree of distortion to the sound. I'm looking for other opinions and instructions on how to do this if I do decide to try it. Thanks! G.
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Re: Bug screens [message #35643 is a reply to message #35637] |
Fri, 22 March 2002 10:18 |
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Wayne Parham
Messages: 18791 Registered: January 2001
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Illuminati (33rd Degree) |
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I don't recommend removing bug screens from compression drivers, but then again, it's not a big deal either way. You won't hurt anything by removing them, but on the other hand, you'll won't gain much by removing them either. That's precisely why I don't suggest that you take off your protective screen.A compression driver has a pretty large exit, and that allows easy entrance for particulate. Once something is in there, it isn't going to come out naturally - It's like putting something in a bottle; Even worse. There is a large cavity for debris to move around in, and it the shape of this cavity tends to hold it inside. So I am not comfortable having the screens removed. The JBL 2426 and Eminence PSD2002 have a nylon mesh that could be cut out easily enough. The PSD2002(S) has a metal screen that can be pried out. This metal screen is somewhat troublesome, in that it will become jarred loose all by itself when used in environments that vibrate the device - You know, like loudspeakers. So after a few years, your PSD2002(S) screen is probably loose anyway. I recommend that a "bead" of metal epoxy, like "JB Weld" be run around the rim of the exit, and the screen be pressed into this bead of epoxy, holding it firmly in place. But if want to take them out, you won't hurt the sound any. Just cut the mesh from a JBL 2426 or Eminence PSD2002. For PSD2002(S), pry out the metal screen with a scribe or similar instrument. If you remove your bug screens, you might want to open up your tweeters every couple of years and vaccuum them clean.
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I cut the screens out... [message #35667 is a reply to message #35637] |
Sat, 23 March 2002 13:24 |
Garland
Messages: 269 Registered: May 2009
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Grand Master |
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...and noticed a distinct increase in the high freq's and "air". Really almost too much. Sounds just right with the grill cloth I have over the drivers.(I had been doing all my serious listening with the grill frames removed.) Looking at the screens after they were removed showed one to have the holes in the screen almost totally filled with some kind of damping material while the other one was only partially filled. I'm guessing that Eminence treats the screens to control the transfer of sound. Haven't really listened enough to make any kind of recommendation. G.
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Re: I think the larger amp stays class A longer [message #35676 is a reply to message #35675] |
Mon, 25 March 2002 05:39 |
Sam P.
Messages: 307 Registered: May 2009
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Grand Master |
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due to it's inherantly higher idle current. My "baby" 60 wpc has only 4 output devices per channel and idles at 6.2 watts dissipation, the "big boy" has 8 and idles at 12.8 watts. I doubt either one is generating AB xover notch distortion at normal listening levels...the devices would have to be driven hard enough to reach cutoff first. Clean, neutral amplification is all I want, being dead silent regarding hum is nice too. And the MAC-240 is still upside down on my workbench, going on a couple of months now, waiting for a "current inrush limiter" to materialize so I can start rebuilding the HV p/s filters :( Sam
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