His Eminence is here (extremely long) [message #33926] |
Wed, 26 September 2001 16:40  |
BillEpstein
Messages: 886 Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (2nd Degree) |
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One Delta woofer is back-ordered but everything else came in one box. The poor UPS guy. Which leads me to ask: I don't have the CH-3's yet, but since they're apparently plastic is it necessary to brace the heavy tweeter motors somehow? PE advises testing the speakers. Is there any reason to wait for the box and crossover? I can hook them directly to my 27 watt amp, yes? They also sent a "complimentary" mounting kit with the 8 screws and some foam stripping. Are you familiar with the foam? Is it good enough? Or even necessary? I've had very good results wiring the Foreplay pre-amp with Doc's 18 ga. magnet wire. There's also Jena wire, same gauge with polyprop dialectric and the 26 ga. OTA from 47 Labs. I know the conventional wisdom is heavier wire for the bass but the OTA and Mapleshade give the lie to that. Is there enough current flying around in the box to demand more than enamel insulation? I'm leaning toward twisted pairs of the 18 ga. enameled. Appreciate your input. I hate to be a nudge but I really need to see a diagram of the crossover cable. Or confirm that I solder one resistor to another in a line and then continue the line with a capacitor which connects to the tweeter post on the crossover? Then the wire end goes to the tweeter? And does the cable go to + or -? The woofer connects to the "w" on the crossover without any attenuation? There's also 2 massive (for audio) fuses on the cross-over. I suppose it would be a good idea to leave enough wire to the woofer to allow it to be pulled away from the cabinet enough to access the innards in the future. This is exciting. Those lovely components are residing in the corner right next to the rolled up monarch grade quilted maple veneer that will clothe the cabinets. I have to finish Mrs. Gotrocks kitchen this week but next week I cut the MDF. Oh boy!
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Re: His Eminence is here (extremely long) [message #33931 is a reply to message #33926] |
Wed, 26 September 2001 18:08   |
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Wayne Parham
Messages: 18838 Registered: January 2001
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Illuminati (33rd Degree) |
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1. Take one lead of (16 ohm) R1 and solder one lead of (0.47uF) C1 to it. Now take the other lead of R1 and solder the other lead of C1 to it. 2. One lead of this pair of components connects to the (+) tweeter output on the crossover. The other lead of this pair of components connects to a wire that goes to the (+) lead on the tweeter. 3. R2 (16 ohms) goes between the (+) and (-) leads on the tweeter crossover. A wire goes between the (-) lead on the crossover and the (-) lead on the tweeter.
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