Home » Audio » Group Build » Group Build Line Array Project
Re: WAF [message #32074 is a reply to message #32073] Tue, 17 October 2006 04:27 Go to previous messageGo to next message
FredT is currently offline  FredT
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This is the kind of thing that can happen if you insist on having low WAF audio equipment in her home.

Re: Group Build Line Array Project [message #32080 is a reply to message #32062] Tue, 24 October 2006 15:27 Go to previous messageGo to next message
FredT is currently offline  FredT
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I'm really pumped up after hearing the $20K IDS line arrays at the RMAF last week. Ours will sound almost as good:)

I talked to the guys at the Parts Express exhibit and they seemed very interested in cutting us a deal for us on each order of sixteen DC130BS-8 5.5" midwoofers. Told them to sharpen their pencil twice, and I'll contact them later this week about a discount price.

Not much to report yet on the construction, but I'll check back as it progresses. I'm documenting it at the link below:


Re: Group Build Line Array Project [message #32081 is a reply to message #32080] Tue, 24 October 2006 16:20 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne Parham is currently offline  Wayne Parham
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Super cool Fred! You're the man!


Re: Group Build Line Array Project [message #32082 is a reply to message #32081] Tue, 24 October 2006 21:45 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Shane is currently offline  Shane
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Oh man, I can hear a giant sucking sound starting --my money sucking out of my wallet. I hope PE runs that special deal for the next six months or so.

How am I supposed to build a Darling amp if ya'll keep coming up with outstanding projects like this? Got most of the stuff for the amp except the PS pieces and iron. Still deciding on which power trannie to use. Of course this will end up costing me twice as much as it should since I tend to double up on everything cause I'll screw up the first set of parts!

So Fred, wanna offer any deals on routing out the front baffles?

Routing Out The Front Baffles [message #32083 is a reply to message #32082] Wed, 25 October 2006 11:34 Go to previous messageGo to next message
FredT is currently offline  FredT
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I plan to build the prototype pair with driver cutouts that can be easily done with a skil saw (drivers not recessed). This will greatly simplify building the speakers, and I expect it will make a measurable and audible (but hopefully not objectionable) difference in the sound versus recessed drivers. I recommend recessing the drivers for anybody who has a router.

Line array baffles are too hard to ship because they're over 5' long, so everybody is on their own. For anybody within driving distance of Houston, if you will reimburse me for the cost of materials I'll build you a flat pack panel kit with routed driver cutouts for free.

But first lets get the prototype pair built and see if they sound good.



Re: Routing Out The Front Baffles [message #32084 is a reply to message #32083] Wed, 25 October 2006 13:12 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Shane is currently offline  Shane
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Thanks Fred.

I agree about getting it going first. I tried to make a homemade router jig for recessing my 2 Pi drivers and it worked OK, but I wouldn't use it on something like this project. I'll just have to break down and buy one of the jigs for doing it right.

Re: Routing Out The Front Baffles [message #32085 is a reply to message #32084] Wed, 25 October 2006 13:54 Go to previous messageGo to next message
colinhester is currently offline  colinhester
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I'm going to try with a hole saw and drill press. I made a wine rack this summer with 13 racks and 9 holes each. The Rigid circle cutters worked like a champ - beat the shit out of a fly-cutter.

I'm ready to get this going......C

Re: Routing Out The Front Baffles [message #32086 is a reply to message #32084] Wed, 25 October 2006 14:25 Go to previous messageGo to next message
FredT is currently offline  FredT
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For what it's worth, I use a Jasper circle jig on my router to do the cutouts. I make them either 1/2" or 3/8" (depending on the driver) smaller than the oveall diameter of the flange, then I use a rabbet bit to make the recesses.

If anybody decides they're going to build enough speakers to justify buying a router, be sure to get a plunge router - this type is needed to use the circle jig. You don't need an expensive one. Mine is a $99 Ryobi.


Jasper jig [message #32087 is a reply to message #32086] Wed, 25 October 2006 19:16 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Shane is currently offline  Shane
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Well, I don't have a plunge router. Mine is a fairly old Craftsman, but works very well. Can you use the Jasper and ease the bit into position? Or I could take a drill and make a hole near the edge first I guess for the router bit to start in.

Re: Jasper jig [message #32088 is a reply to message #32087] Thu, 26 October 2006 10:43 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
FredT is currently offline  FredT
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I suppose you could, but that might be more trouble than cutting them with a skil saw. Remember, since you're not recessing the drivers the cutouts don't have to be perfectly round.

I'm beginning to make some progress on the enclosures
http://fredt300b.smugmug.com/gallery/2046580

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