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troubleshooting continued. [message #30913] Thu, 10 March 2005 15:52 Go to next message
Manualblock is currently offline  Manualblock
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Illuminati (13th Degree)
So the LED's one side is very bright and steady independent of the volume pot; the other side is of lower intensity and will adjust with rotation of the pot. I backed off on the R3 variable to no avail, same thing even backed down all the way. Any thought's?

Current between ground and plate? [message #30914 is a reply to message #30913] Thu, 10 March 2005 16:05 Go to previous messageGo to next message
colinhester is currently offline  colinhester
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Are you able to adjust to 15mA with R3? Do you see any variance in current with R3?.....Colin

Re: troubleshooting continued. [message #30916 is a reply to message #30913] Thu, 10 March 2005 16:26 Go to previous messageGo to next message
PakProtector is currently offline  PakProtector
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Registered: May 2009
Illuminati (2nd Degree)
this is a new one for me...but then a lot of them are. I would first suggest you check resistances cold and compare between the two. I would suggest there is trouble with the side that has variable LED brightness. The volume know thing is quite weird IMO. Confirm your pin connections, sometimes mirror image/dyslexia-like symptoms have bitten me on the back side.

Check ground to grid, ground to cathode, check that grid-ground resistance is dependant on volume position, and check input jack-ground DCR. If you get somethig unexpected, post your findings.

Some ballparks, input jack-ground ~100kOhm
grid-ground 0 at minimum vulume, 100k at max.

regards,
Douglas

Re: troubleshooting continued. [message #30918 is a reply to message #30916] Thu, 10 March 2005 18:27 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Manualblock is currently offline  Manualblock
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Illuminati (13th Degree)
Sounds good; so the LED's should all be the same brightness? Also when the volume pot is all the way off one side shuts down. I am using the RS pot.

Re: Current between ground and plate? [message #30920 is a reply to message #30914] Thu, 10 March 2005 18:33 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Manualblock is currently offline  Manualblock
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Illuminati (13th Degree)
I don't know how to check current.

that's the funny part... [message #30922 is a reply to message #30918] Thu, 10 March 2005 18:50 Go to previous messageGo to next message
PakProtector is currently offline  PakProtector
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Registered: May 2009
Illuminati (2nd Degree)
I can't escape the idea that you have incorrectly hooked something up. That just shouldn't happen. Not even close, no way, no how...

I am going to be quite curious to hear what you finally discover the problem is. I wish we were neighbors, this whole thing would've been settled over a diet Dr.Pepper before it even happened...
regards,
Douglas

one more thing. Try and get somebody else to look at what you have done, it would appear that the 'bliders' are on, which makes it very hard to proof your own work. Please don't take offense at my bluntness, I mean no slight. Print out the basing diagrams and perhaps the teaching of the student inspector will illuminate the problem.

Measuring current [message #30923 is a reply to message #30920] Thu, 10 March 2005 18:50 Go to previous messageGo to next message
colinhester is currently offline  colinhester
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Registered: May 2009
Location: NE Arkansas
Illuminati (3rd Degree)
Hook the black lead on your meter to ground using safety hook. Safety hook the red lead to pen 1 of 5687 and turn on amp. Let warm up and check current DCA. Adjusting R3 should vary the current and set to 15mA DC (remember 10mA will stop your heart, so please be safe.) When the leads are in place, the LEDs will go out. Repeat between pens 1 and 9.

Don't go poking around on the CCS with the probe while it's on. Don't ask.

Give me a call later if you want. We can go through Damir's schematic and compare construction and voltages. I'll be up until 1 or 2...Colin


Re: Measuring current [message #30925 is a reply to message #30923] Thu, 10 March 2005 21:20 Go to previous messageGo to next message
PakProtector is currently offline  PakProtector
Messages: 935
Registered: May 2009
Illuminati (2nd Degree)
did it eat into your stock of spares?

I would re-word a bit. Don't check between pins one and nine, repeat the measurement proceedure for pins one and nine ( the anodes ).

If you attach negative lead to the cathode( pin 3 for pin 1 anode , and pin 6 fo the pin 9 anode ) or to of the LED string, you can measure current w/o extinguishing the LED's. Not exactly remomended, as there is less room than the ground terminal offers.

Thanks again Colin for teaching me that cool trick.
regards,
Dogulas


198DCV from B+ to B- for Guinevere [message #30926 is a reply to message #30913] Thu, 10 March 2005 21:31 Go to previous messageGo to next message
colinhester is currently offline  colinhester
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Registered: May 2009
Location: NE Arkansas
Illuminati (3rd Degree)
I measured between the PS cap terminals tonight and got 198DCV. You said you were getting close to 300DCV. Correct? I confirmed I have the blue w/red strip hooked up to the rectifier. What choke are you using? I went with the 193C.

Did you get the LED dimming problem sorted out? If you went with the Belden cable, be sure only one end of the connection is grounded. It sounds like your losing current to the ground. Look for nicks or cuts in the cables's wrap. Also, test continuity between the signal path and ground, there should be none.

PLEASE give me a call.....Colin


How much difference? [message #30927 is a reply to message #30925] Fri, 11 March 2005 08:48 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
colinhester is currently offline  colinhester
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Registered: May 2009
Location: NE Arkansas
Illuminati (3rd Degree)
How much of a difference do you see in R3 by varying current with a 9V, with CCS out of the circuit, versus measuring actual in situ current. Just curious......Colin

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