T-nuts, their care and feeding [message #29868] |
Thu, 25 January 2007 12:40 |
lon
Messages: 760 Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (2nd Degree) |
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What is it about t-nuts that I don't understand? I'm doing a build and usinf t-nuts for the first time because I want a removable back and front for not only interior adjustments but also possible replacement panels with a port cut in. I have these things from Parts Express called Hurricane nuts. The goal was to have these things in pairs on the frame and on the removable back. I got my corrent jole size drilled through both pieces and when I got the t-nuts inserted and tried to screm them down they backed up and loosened a joint. The joint is a small problem to fix and I'm working on the back to catch any of these mistakes before doing the front. In playing with the bolt and the t-nut, there seemed to be a stop at the end of the nut in the machining. I want the t-nut on the surface of the removable panel to use as a magnet catch for a grille on the front side and a mated nut on the frame to draw down around a seal on the frame that I'll fabricate. This means that I was figuring on one bolt going through the first and the second drawing down tight to the frame. Where has the logic or selection of parts gone wrong here?
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Re: T-nuts, their care and feeding [message #29869 is a reply to message #29868] |
Fri, 26 January 2007 07:40 |
Bob Brines
Messages: 186 Registered: May 2009 Location: Hot Springs Village, AR
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Master |
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The PE hurricane nuts are horrible, particularly in MDF. They simply won't hold. Get 3 or 4 pronged t-nut, Any hardware store with a good supply of BOXED fasteners will have them. You can also order them for places like McMasters. If you are really worried about t-nuts tearing out, you can get them with holes instead of prongs and use brads or small nails to secure them. Are you putting the t-nut on the correct side of the panels? I assume that you have furring strips along the sides of the fixed panels. The t-nuts go on the back (inside) of the furring strips. The best way to set a t-nut is to drill the hole (5/16" for a 1/4-20 t-nut). Place the t-nut in the hole from the back and run a hex-head bolt with a washer through the furring strip and the t-nut. Tighten down the bolt with a socket wrench until the t-nut is fully set. Remove the bolt and move on. In a pile furring strip, even MDF, you should not have any problem with the t-nut tearing out unless you severely over torque the mounting screws. Usually you will tear out the head of a Phillips screw way before the t-nut gives. On note about mounting the t-nuts. Make sure that the prongs are straight. Sometimes the prongs will fold up under the t-nut rather than bite into the wood. Bob
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Re: T-nuts, their care and feeding [message #29870 is a reply to message #29869] |
Fri, 26 January 2007 13:36 |
lon
Messages: 760 Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (2nd Degree) |
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"Hurricane nuts are horrible." _Now_ he tells me. Well this project is a 'mule' a test box of a line array so I am using up things I have to do the build. And yes local hardware store has the real kind of t-nuts. On looking more closely at what was happening, when using 2 of the hurricane nuts when one would tighten down it would draw the second one out. So bolting into one of these worked ok for this job. The treatment is not what I wanted though. I wanted use up those hurricane nuts and dump the rest.
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Re: T-nuts, their care and feeding [message #29871 is a reply to message #29870] |
Sat, 27 January 2007 07:16 |
Bob Brines
Messages: 186 Registered: May 2009 Location: Hot Springs Village, AR
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Master |
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I don't think I understood exactly how you were using the t-nuts (hurricane nuts).Are you putting one t-nut on the back of the furring strip AND one t-nut on the back of the panel? If so -- no, no no! Just one t-nut per mounting hole, on the back of the furring strip. Assuming a 1/4" bolt, you drill a 1/4" clearance hole through the panel and a 5/16" hole through the furring strip. Drop the bolt thought the panel and thread it into the single t-nut. The panel will tighten down nicely. Bob
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Re: T-nuts, their care and feeding [message #29872 is a reply to message #29871] |
Sat, 27 January 2007 10:53 |
lon
Messages: 760 Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (2nd Degree) |
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Yah, I was doing it incorrectly. The goal was to have a flush flat metal surface to attach a grille with magnets on it. The surface t-nuts would then be masked when the grilles were attached. Only other option I could think of are fender washers. But those done sit flush either. The hurricane nuts and t-nuts in general have a dimple which would allow a flathead screw to be flush. At least that's the way they look.
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Re: Just to muddy the waters.... [message #29873 is a reply to message #29871] |
Mon, 29 January 2007 03:32 |
Bill Epstein
Messages: 1088 Registered: May 2009 Location: Smoky Mts. USA
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Illuminati (2nd Degree) |
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I've given up on T-nuts. Such a tedious hassle to get them seated properly and then there's always at least one of a set that manages to blow out right away and two more over time. I only use threaded inserts now. Get them at McMaster-Carr. They thread into the hole with a hex driver and stay put. Even when there's almost no "meat" between the hole and the speaker cut-out. Be sure and get them "with flange" or you'll run them right back out when you tighten down the bolt. Don't ask me how I know that! They come in any thread size you could want in quantities of 50 or 100 for a few dollars. The only way to fly.
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Re: Just to muddy the waters.... [message #29874 is a reply to message #29873] |
Mon, 29 January 2007 10:39 |
Bob Brines
Messages: 186 Registered: May 2009 Location: Hot Springs Village, AR
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Master |
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Yea, these work. They are supplied with all of those cheap spike sets. Of course, these go on the front of the panel, whereas t-nuts go on the back. This fine for mounting drivers, but if you are mounting panels to furring strips, the flange will cause an air gap. You will need to either use a gasket or countersink the flange. When I have used this type of insert, I use the unflanged, drill the clearance hole for the bolt, then redrill for the insert shank to the exact depth required. I have never had a problem pushing the insert through the furring strip. Personally, I prefer the t-nut. As long as I take reasonable care to set the t-nut prior to use, making sure that the prongs haven't folded up under the flange, I've not had a problem with tear-outs. Of course, if you must torque the bolt down with a 1/2" drive t-bar.... Bob
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Re: Good point [message #29875 is a reply to message #29874] |
Mon, 29 January 2007 12:01 |
Bill Epstein
Messages: 1088 Registered: May 2009 Location: Smoky Mts. USA
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Illuminati (2nd Degree) |
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The inserts are mostly shallower than the typical 3/4" panels and that would allow the non-flanged. Frankly, I hadn't thought of that. I use my cordless with some hex keys I cut the 'L' off of to drive the 1/4-20 or 10-24 cap head bolts on a fairly low torque setting. Still, there always seems to be at least one hole close enough to the edge of the cut-out that it works loose and then you feel the bolt turning and turning to no purpose! Which also destroys the edge and precludes fixing a new T-nut w/o filling and re-drilling. Next time you tire of installing one more g-d driver think how it helps you maintain your edge:)
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Re: T-nuts, their care and feeding [message #29880 is a reply to message #29876] |
Sat, 10 February 2007 16:05 |
lon
Messages: 760 Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (2nd Degree) |
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Wasn't back in here for a while. Yes, I have the stuff to countersink and have done that for a tnut but ran into the backing out probelm using one forward and one backward. These would not draw down. A fender washer has nothing on it to give a flush mount. I would use those socket things made of plastic but I had a bad experience with them. One time I had a set of kit speakers and the the holes must have been drilled incorrectly and those plastic inserts did not fit properly. So I wanted to use a surface technique to avoid the headaches.
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