Home » Audio » Craftsmen » Edgebanding plywood
Edgebanding plywood [message #29852] Wed, 13 December 2006 19:40 Go to next message
Bill Epstein is currently offline  Bill Epstein
Messages: 1088
Registered: May 2009
Location: Smoky Mts. USA
Illuminati (2nd Degree)
Here's the tips on edgebanding plywood none of you asked for.

Edgebanding is real wood veneer with a polyester backing coated with hot-melt glue. There is also peel-n-stick available but I've never used it.

Woodcraft sells 50' rolls of peel-n-stick for 31.99. I buy 250' rolls of hot melt for $35 from a friendly small cabinet shop who just adds it to his regular order from a distributor. That price gets you birch or oak or walnut.

A few things you need to know to smooth the way. Cut the banding with ordinary scissors as close to the ends of the piece as you can. Long tails are tough to trim off. Use an ordinary household iron on medium heat and position it a little ways in from the end and heat and press that end. Then work along in the opposite direction the length of the edge. Go slowly and use moderate pressure. The iron won't want to stay flat on a narrow 3/4" edge so watch for that. Pause a bit at the end to make sure you get a good bond there.

Let it cool a minute than tap-tap with your finger tip, listening for a clicking sound. Clicking means the veneer is loose because the glue cooled away from the edge and needs to be re-heated just a bit and then pressed down with your finger.

Like any veneer, do the sides and then the top of the workpiece. Trim the sides before gluing the top. You can trim off the excess from the 15/16" wide tape with a block plane or razor knife. I prefer the block plane; I can't cut reliably close with a knife and when I've tried to sand off the excess the tape just folds over.

The best way to trim is with a Fast-edge or Virutex double laminate trimmer, about $18 from Woodcraft, E-Bay, Amazon or locally. It's a 2 piece plastic block with a knife on each spring-loaded side. You simply grip the board and push or pull it along, cutting both waste pieces at once.

If you use a plane, try to have all the waste to one side so you cut the job in half.

Your scissors will leave about a 1/4" tail on each end (I use a pair of Greenlee electricians scissors I've had for years. They cut wire, veneer,almost anything and never get dull). Trim that off with the block plane always working from the end in so you don't tear away the tape. Now you can tape the top and bottom edges.

You'll have at least 2 pieces to do for speaker cabinets. Put aside the piece with 2 long edges done and do the other before attempting any trimming so the tape cools and the glue has a chance to bond.

It really is easy and only gets easier with practice.

Re: Edgebanding plywood [message #29853 is a reply to message #29852] Fri, 15 December 2006 07:35 Go to previous message
SteveBrown is currently offline  SteveBrown
Messages: 330
Registered: May 2009
Grand Master
Hey Bill, I'll add that the one pain in the backside I've had with edge banding is that the material I've used often has splices in it where shorter pieces are joined together to make the long roll. While this is nearly impossible to spot before finishing, I've found it very easy to spot after finishing. So... if you're using edge banding and you don't want a spice right smack in the wrong place, pay close attention. Also, on corners I like to have a mitered look, so I use an exacto knife and a metal triangle to make a 45 degree cut across the edge. Works pretty well.

Previous Topic: Mahogany Chassis for DIY Dac. Thanks Bill
Next Topic: Finishing Cherry is a pain
Goto Forum:
  


Current Time: Fri Apr 19 07:59:39 CDT 2024

Sponsoring Organizations

DIY Audio Projects
DIY Audio Projects
OddWatt Audio
OddWatt Audio
Pi Speakers
Pi Speakers
Prosound Shootout
Prosound Shootout
Smith & Larson Audio
Smith & Larson Audio
Tubes For Amps
TubesForAmps.com

Lone Star Audiofest