Home » Audio » Craftsmen » Finishing Cherry is a pain
Finishing Cherry is a pain [message #29824] Fri, 27 October 2006 17:20 Go to next message
Bill Epstein is currently offline  Bill Epstein
Messages: 1088
Registered: May 2009
Location: Smoky Mts. USA
Illuminati (2nd Degree)
Using the best advice I can find I've tried just about everything for the '45' amp base and still can't get the look I want.
I've used dye stain then shellac, oil/varnish then shellac, just oil/varnish, just shellac - garnet and amber, shellac then oil; you name it.
Nothing seems to make the grain "pop" and most cloud it. I've got one more idea: a really light coat of oil/varnish followed by amber shellac. Coincidentally, the same finish was featured on a piece in the latest Fine Woodworking. It won't give the dark antique look I originally wanted but should reveal the character of the wood. I hope.



Re: Turns out that finishing cherry is like making a perfect Martini [message #29825 is a reply to message #29824] Sat, 28 October 2006 18:46 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Bill Epstein is currently offline  Bill Epstein
Messages: 1088
Registered: May 2009
Location: Smoky Mts. USA
Illuminati (2nd Degree)
The perfect Martini begins with a glass from the freezer; the Gin and Vermouth from the refrigerator. It's all about planning ahead.

Then you must handle the ingredients with the utmost care. Pour just a splash of vermouth in the frosted glass and swish it about so it touchs all of the inside. Then pour it out. This requires the utmost delicacy. Now add the Gin and just one olive.

Cherry demands the same careful treatment. The initial coat of varnish/oil, in this case, Watco Natural, needs to be applied with the thinnest coat you can manage. The slightest hint of a puddle will cause blotching. I dipped the lint-free towel in the oil then folded it back on itself so that the part that was dipped never touchs the wood. Only what bleeds through a dry layer goes on. No blotches.

Once the oil is thoroughly dry the shellac is applied with a pad made by placing a ball of of an old cotton sock inside a squre of cheesecloth. Dip the pad in the shellac and don't just let the excess drip off. Squeeze the pad dry, Then pad on the shellac until the pad begins to drag on the wood. Only then go back and re-wet it.
And use nothing more than a 1 pound cut.

It'll take many coats, each rubbed out with 4-0 steel wool, but now I know I'm on the way to a beautiful finish.

Pass the Gin.



Or Manhattan? [message #29826 is a reply to message #29825] Sun, 29 October 2006 17:44 Go to previous messageGo to next message
SteveBrown is currently offline  SteveBrown
Messages: 330
Registered: May 2009
Grand Master
You know me, frozen glasses, but booze right off the bar. At any rate, here's what I've picked up on cherry (my favorite wood). Once you've sanded as fine as you want, leave it rest for a few weeks (I know, nearly impossible) but somehow the oils in the wood and the pours all come together after a nice rest (I like to put my stuff in the sun if I can). Then Tung Oil only. I've tried Watco both natural and Danish, and just plain old Tung works best for me. I like to do several coats. I have a small amp base that I did this way, but admit it is a pain for larger pieces. But even recently I tried Danish (like on my big speakers) and okay, the finish looks like Danish oil, but there is not the "gain pop" you talk about. No depth, no deep character. At any rate, glad to hear the base is coming along! Love to see them when done!

Try Boiled Linseed Oil and Shellac [message #29854 is a reply to message #29824] Sat, 16 December 2006 06:16 Go to previous message
dbishopbliss is currently offline  dbishopbliss
Messages: 10
Registered: May 2009
Chancellor
I just took a furniture making class where we built a shaker style end-table in Cherry. I haven't finished it yet, but he instructor recommended BOILED linseed oil (2 coats) with a shellac top-coat. Remember, Cherry darkens over time.

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