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2Pi Tower Build [message #94173] Mon, 09 August 2021 08:39 Go to next message
birkbott is currently offline  birkbott
Messages: 3
Registered: August 2021
Esquire
Hi all, I just ordered my Two Pi Tower kits and while I wait patiently for the backorder I have some questions:

Regarding lumber I know that 5/8" is called for but is there any audible benefit to going with 3/4"? I've only worked with 3/4" MDF before for bookshelf speakers but I'm worried it might make floorstanders needlessly heavy.

Is rounding the inside of the cutout for the woofer recommended? I'm planning to surface mount unless there's any benefit to flush mount.

For the build what do I need to buy that doesn't come with the kit? Speaker terminals I'm assuming? Are there recommended mounting screws for the drivers? Any other internal cabling or anything else? What about feet? Or should they sit on the floor?

For upgrades I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron are there good crossover upgrades? And is there an upgrade swap for the woofer? Any other tweaks that people have tried?

Thanks all in advance
Re: 2Pi Tower Build [message #94175 is a reply to message #94173] Mon, 09 August 2021 11:11 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne Parham is currently online  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18123
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)

I'm sure others will chime in but I'll throw in my 2ยข:

MDF is heavy, but I have two Pi towers made of MDF and they aren't too bad. Either thickness is fine - no advantage or disadvantage either way - because the rigidity is created by the braces, not the panel thickness. Do be sure your port size is appropriate for the panel thickness though. Port diameter depends on panel thickness, as is shown in the notes on the plans.

Also be sure you install the insulation as described in the plans. It is very important. You want the insulation spanning the cross-section as well as on the cabinet sides.

The crossover components that come with the kit are very good. You get Solen polypropylene caps and Jantzen air-core coils. We supply the internal wiring too. I don't think any upgrades are necessary.

A terminal plate comes with the kits. It mounts using a 2-1/8" x 2-7/8" hole. On most loudspeaker models, we put it 3" up from the bottom. But on the towers, we put it higher on the cabinet, just below the midwoofer. They're good posts, but you can get Cardas binding posts instead, if you want.

I like to use black oxide #8 pan head wood screws for the one Pi and two Pi models. But on larger models, I like using button head 10-32 screws and T-Nuts or threaded inserts. You could do that, if you want.

Lastly, there's no difference in performance between surface-mounted drivers and flush-mounted drivers. It's purely aesthetics.
Re: 2Pi Tower Build [message #94177 is a reply to message #94175] Mon, 09 August 2021 16:07 Go to previous messageGo to next message
birkbott is currently offline  birkbott
Messages: 3
Registered: August 2021
Esquire
This is very helpful, thank you.

Just to clarify, the insulation hangs on each brace and goes down one side? Or both sides? And nothing on the rear wall right? I saw a picture in another thread which looked like just one side + horizontal on the braces.

And do I need to bother with rounding he inside of the woofer cutout or no?

Thanks again for the info
Re: 2Pi Tower Build [message #94180 is a reply to message #94177] Mon, 09 August 2021 18:36 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne Parham is currently online  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18123
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)

No need to round the edges of the cutouts. As for the insulation, the section on the braces is horizontal, just like you saw. That's really important. It completely covers the brace, spans side to side and fore to aft. When the insulation is installed on the brace, it looks like it divides and separates the chambers from one another. And in a sense, it does - midrange frequencies cannot pass through it. Bass will pass right through like it isn't even there though. So it forms a very good midrange "trap" and damps the standing waves that would otherwise be present.
Re: 2Pi Tower Build [message #94199 is a reply to message #94180] Thu, 12 August 2021 21:11 Go to previous messageGo to next message
birkbott is currently offline  birkbott
Messages: 3
Registered: August 2021
Esquire
Thanks Wayne, looks like I'm going with 3/4" MDF since that's what's available and reasonably priced in my area so I will adjust the port size accordingly.

Theres no specific location for the terminal plate on the plans, I'm assuming it can go a couple times inches below the 2nd braces below the woofer?

Also, where do people usually mount the crossover? And is there a preferred method to mount it?
Re: 2Pi Tower Build [message #94204 is a reply to message #94199] Fri, 13 August 2021 08:12 Go to previous message
Wayne Parham is currently online  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18123
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)

The terminal plate can be placed anywhere convenient. As I said, we always put it just below the woofer. As for the crossover, that too is placed where convenient. We usually place board-mounted crossovers on the floor of the cabinet and wire-tie inline crossovers to one of the braces.
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