Transformers [message #10872] |
Wed, 15 December 2004 20:06 |
Manualblock
Messages: 4973 Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (13th Degree) |
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It may be 50$ for the power trans on the 5867 pre. I tried many places and that is the lowest acceptable unless you want to try used; such as a dyna which has similar specs. I have considered a better quality trans in liue of boutique caps and such. ICR's and Mouser metal film with radio shack RCA jacks and a trashed line cord and fuse set-up. The chassis is the thing now. And the chokes.
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Re: Transformers [message #10874 is a reply to message #10872] |
Wed, 15 December 2004 21:07 |
colinhester
Messages: 1349 Registered: May 2009 Location: NE Arkansas
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Illuminati (3rd Degree) |
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I don't think you're going to find a more basic pre around (or meaningful project for that matter.) As Wayne said, this has a good reputation and takes only about an hour to build. I know we had talked about a price of around $100, but that was just a number thrown out. This is a great project to begin the group build. It's simple and already has a great website devoted to its construction. We can build our own reference section and just see how things evolve. Not only am I excited about the build, but even if someone decides not to do the construction there is a wealth of knowledge just waiting to be shared floating around these parts. I would be thrilled to hear everyone's opinion on both circuit theory and construction techniques. Like I said before, I'm here to learn.....Colin
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Re: Chassis [message #10879 is a reply to message #10876] |
Thu, 16 December 2004 02:50 |
BillEpstein
Messages: 886 Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (2nd Degree) |
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If you have a router and a chop saw; if you have just a hand miter saw...............
get a 1x4x6 #2 pine board for $2.46 and a brass plated aluminum (non-magnetic) door kickplate 6x36 for $10. Send the 26" you don't use to the next builder. The kickplate will have holes pre-drilled in it, too. Size the pine to screw the 6" kickplate directly to it or rout a narrow rabbet to accept it then put some "stop" molding where the screws go. You can cut the kickplate with any power saw but sandwich it between sacrificial pieces of plywood to keep metal shards from eyeballs.
After you miter the 4 pieces lay them out edge to edge. Use masking tape to connect them pulling and stretching the tape. 2 pieces on each connection to even the strain. Carefully turn them over to expose the angles and apply PVA or urethane glue to each surface. If you use polyurethane don't forget to dampen the wood, first. Also, it's very runny so apply tape the length of the joint on the outside to keep the glue off the surface. Now set them on edge, form them into the final box configuration and tape the remaining joint. Place the chassis on some waxed paper to save Wifey's cherry dining room table. It will peel off easily after the glue dries.
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Re: Chassis [message #10887 is a reply to message #10879] |
Thu, 16 December 2004 19:15 |
GarMan
Messages: 960 Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (2nd Degree) |
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Bill, the kickplate is used as the top plate of the wooden chassis, right? Funny I should read about this tonight. I was just out this afternoon buying material for a chassis for my K-502 amp. Spend $12 for a 8"x10" sheet of 16 gauge stainless steel, polished on one side at the Metal Supermarket and $8 for a piece of 3x1x4 dressed oak. All prices in Cdn. I think the 16 gauge might be overkill. It weighed in a over a pound and half. 18 or 20 gauge would have suffice.
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