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Re: 4 Pi Home Theater Build [message #67616 is a reply to message #67610]

Sat, 14 May 2011 14:12

Dave_S
Messages: 28
Registered: April 2011

Chancellor

As far as a finish, I used Sam Maloof Poly Oil finish from Rockler Woodworking on the TV stand that I mentioned. I think that it is a polyurethane/tung oil finish. The finish quality was the best I have ever obtained. I would hesistate to anything else any more. It applies with a rag. I screw stuff up whenever I touch a brush. To obtain a nice low luster finish, you have to make sure that you wipe everything off that you can after a few minutes and sand lightly between coats as directed on the can. That brand is an exclusive of Rockler and a little expensive though.

As far as straight polyurethane, I have never noticed much of a difference, but I have only used the Minwax and Varathane brands.

I do not know anything about that type of glue.

I started the cutout on mine. I only have ripped the wood to width so far.

Since the hex nuts that come with the tweeter interfere with the horn, I purchased some socket head cap screws for attaching the tweeter to the horn. A ball end wrench provide enough clearance to thighten the screws. I needed to temporarily remove the flange on the horn to insert the screws. I purchased M6 x 12mm long screws, but will switch them out to M6 x 16mm screws and use some Loctite thread locker.

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Re: 4 Pi Home Theater Build [message #67650 is a reply to message #67598]

Mon, 16 May 2011 10:44

NWCgrad
Messages: 143
Registered: March 2010
Location: Frederick, United States ...

Master

Wayne Parham wrote on Thu, 12 May 2011 21:35

That's excellent! Thanks for taking the time to write-up the build process and include pics. I love it when you guys do that!

On the veneers - wait a day and see if Epstein sees this thread and gives his 2¢. He is really a master woodworker, and will probably have some helpful advice. If he doesn't see it in a day or so, post your question on the Craftsmen forum.

Thanks Wayne...Once I order the components for the 4 Pi build approximately how long does it take to ship? I am packing my stuff for my overseas move and need an idea of the time it will take to deliver the materials to Maryland.

No progress on the build this weekend, it was to wet to work outside - which is where I do all the work that generates dust.

VIRIBUS MARI VICTORIA

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Re: 4 Pi Home Theater Build [message #67654 is a reply to message #67650]

Mon, 16 May 2011 13:58

Wayne Parham
Messages: 18677
Registered: January 2001

Illuminati (33rd Degree)

It depends on what you order. We keep all the parts for the crossovers in stock, so we can build them pretty fast. Usually takes five days. We build to order because there are so many options, it doesn't make sense to try and maintain inventory of each crossover and each option.

We keep drivers in stock too, but many more of the little stuff than the high end stuff because of the numbers we sell. However, I do usually have a couple JBL 2226 drivers. When I run out, they usually take about a week to replenish, but occasionally they're backordered. The TD12S is the one you can't expect to get for an extended period of time. Those are made to order and I would expect several months lead time.

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Re: 4 Pi Home Theater Build [message #67660 is a reply to message #67654]

Mon, 16 May 2011 14:31

NWCgrad
Messages: 143
Registered: March 2010
Location: Frederick, United States ...

Master

Thanks for the quick reply...I am looking at ordering the B&C DE250 Compression driver, JBL 2226 Woofer, 15 guage Inductors, Jantzen Zcaps Capacitors and Mills Resistors (already in my shopping cart). Just waiting for final authorization from the comptroller (ie wife) before loading the plastic.

I hope that the LSAF went well for you, wish I could have attended - but TX is a bit far from MD/RI.

VIRIBUS MARI VICTORIA

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Re: 4 Pi Home Theater Build [message #67692 is a reply to message #67660]

Mon, 16 May 2011 23:06

Wayne Parham
Messages: 18677
Registered: January 2001

Illuminati (33rd Degree)

It would probably take 10 days to ship if you ordered right now. We have everything in stock but the DE250s, and should get replenishment of those soon.

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Re: 4 Pi Home Theater Build [message #67704 is a reply to message #67585]

Tue, 17 May 2011 16:55

Spec4
Messages: 2
Registered: December 2010

Esquire

Hmmm looks like someone is an Inventor user, care to share the files? I'm in the process of building a HT and will be needing to make my own cabs.

Thanks
Justin B

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Re: 4 Pi Home Theater Build [message #67705 is a reply to message #67704]

Tue, 17 May 2011 17:20

Wayne Parham
Messages: 18677
Registered: January 2001

Illuminati (33rd Degree)

Are you asking for four π plans?

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Re: 4 Pi Home Theater Build [message #67706 is a reply to message #67585]

Tue, 17 May 2011 17:32

Spec4
Messages: 2
Registered: December 2010

Esquire

No I've already requested and received the 4 pi plans, just thought this would save me some time when I model my HT.

Thanks
JB

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Re: 4 Pi Home Theater Build [message #67707 is a reply to message #67706]

Tue, 17 May 2011 17:51

Wayne Parham
Messages: 18677
Registered: January 2001

Illuminati (33rd Degree)

Gotcha, cool.

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Re: 4 Pi Home Theater Build [message #67710 is a reply to message #67707]

Tue, 17 May 2011 21:46

NWCgrad
Messages: 143
Registered: March 2010
Location: Frederick, United States ...

Master

Just pulled the trigger...it only took 2 years.

index.php?t=getfile&id=410&private=0

I ended up going with the JBL 2226H and B&C DE250 drivers, and the upgraded 15 guage inductor. Decided not to go with the upgraded capacitors and resistors.

Wayne Parham wrote on Sun, 27 March 2011 23:43

Yes, the upgrades are worth it. I would upgrade in the following order, as I think these bring the greatest improvements in this order:

1. Woofer
2. Compression driver
3. Coils
4. Capacitors
5. Resistors

The upgraded woofer make a big difference, especially in midbass and midrange quality. I mean, the Omega 15 sounds nice but it just can't be compared to the JBL 2226. I think the biggest reason for this is the flux stabilization ring in the JBL woofer. It makes the motor more linear, reducing distortion and improving clarity. It also makes the speaker less fatiguing to listen to for extended periods or at high volume levels or both.

The tweeter is next. The DE250 is noticably smoother than the PSD2002, sounding more "mellow" but at the same time still being as crisp, even more so. The stock tweeter sounds good, and I wouldn't call it harsh by any means. Some titanium drivers are, but the stock one isn't. But still, the upgraded driver is more smooth, and it's worth upgrading, in my opinion.

The stock crossover is very good, and I think crossover upgrades are mostly for bragging rights. One exception is the coils, with the larger ones having less internal resistance, which improves damping. They aren't necessary by any means, but the low cost of the upgraded coils make that a worthwhile upgrade. The resistors don't cost much either, so some people like to upgrade them as well. The capacitor upgrades are pricey, and to my ears don't buy much. But if you want the very best, the capacitors can be upgraded too.

Wife thinks I am crazy spending this much on a design I have never heard...but all the loyal owners and great feedback about Wayne out on the 'net pushed me over the ledge. I look forward to getting on with the build.

Thanks Wayne for making your designs available to the DIY community!!! Very Happy

All I need now is for Bill Epstein to walk me off the ledge in regards to using contact cement to apply the veneer. Is there any particular brand I should look for in regards to the contact cement?