Home » Audio » Speaker » What can you do when they get wet?
What can you do when they get wet? [message #67069] Fri, 15 April 2011 23:21 Go to next message
tiktokontheclock is currently offline  tiktokontheclock
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Registered: April 2011
Chancellor
I have some old speakers that got soaked when we had a roof leak, and I am wondering if there are any remedies to fix them. They are pretty large floor speakers, I'm talking like 4' by 2'.
Re: What can you do when they get wet? [message #67070 is a reply to message #67069] Sat, 16 April 2011 02:08 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne Parham is currently offline  Wayne Parham
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Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)

You'll probably need to have them reconed.

Re: What can you do when they get wet? [message #67126 is a reply to message #67070] Tue, 19 April 2011 22:34 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Shane is currently offline  Shane
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Registered: May 2009
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I once had a combo guitar amplifier that sat in a room that flooded with water a little bit below center of the cones for several hours. Put it up and blew gentle, unheated air on it for about 4 days until it was dry. They seemed to recover fine and didn't look worse for wear. I was afraid one side would dry and shrink causing issues, but they seemed fine and I never had a problem with them for several more years of use.

If they dry wonky though, you'll be looking at a recone like Wayne said.
Re: What can you do when they get wet? [message #67766 is a reply to message #67126] Fri, 20 May 2011 19:32 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Drury is currently offline  Drury
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Registered: May 2011
Baron
As far as I know reconing is something you have to have a professional do. It can also run quite expensive, especially if you have to ship the speakers to someone for the job to be done. I would be thinking about the cost of new vs reconing as a major factor in the decision.
Re: What can you do when they get wet? [message #67849 is a reply to message #67069] Wed, 25 May 2011 12:46 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Nymeria is currently offline  Nymeria
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Registered: April 2011
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I would try drying them out first as Shane recommended, just in case you can avoid reconing, but I wouldn't be too hopeful. While they are drying, look around to see if there are local options for reconing so you won't have to pay shipping.
Re: What can you do when they get wet? [message #67850 is a reply to message #67069] Wed, 25 May 2011 15:00 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Adveser is currently offline  Adveser
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Registered: July 2009
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Wouldn't it be cheaper to look for new drivers? I priced the drivers in my speakers a while ago and they were available at only about 30 bucks each for the woofer and something like 20 for the others, 140 bucks makes my speakers brand new coupled with a cap change.I don't think you can ship a whole pair of speakers for that outside of using greyhound and having them picked up both ways.

Re: What can you do when they get wet? [message #67853 is a reply to message #67850] Wed, 25 May 2011 19:26 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Shane is currently offline  Shane
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Registered: May 2009
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Adveser wrote on Wed, 25 May 2011 15:00
Wouldn't it be cheaper to look for new drivers? I priced the drivers in my speakers a while ago and they were available at only about 30 bucks each for the woofer and something like 20 for the others, 140 bucks makes my speakers brand new coupled with a cap change.I don't think you can ship a whole pair of speakers for that outside of using greyhound and having them picked up both ways.


Depends on the speaker. If they are old there may not be replacements with the same specs. If they are new, the drivers might be $1K each or more depending on the type. The replacement midrange for an old pair of Polk Audio speakers I have is well over $100, and they are 25 years old. If you have a cheapo pair of speakers that only cost a couple of hundred bucks it might be cheaper to buy new speakers than drivers. You need to weigh the costs each way.
Re: What can you do when they get wet? [message #67859 is a reply to message #67069] Wed, 25 May 2011 22:25 Go to previous message
Adveser is currently offline  Adveser
Messages: 434
Registered: July 2009
Location: USA
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I think I understand, there's an audiophile market for replacement parts and they were hoarded or priced to be a slow but profitable sale because of the high price tag of the speaker. My speakers are known to be available and cheap with little effort and money to get them. I've seen the exact model for sale four times in a year and I don't really look around on CL often. They were speakers from a 3K all-inclusive package around 1990 and easily the most expensive part.

Something tells me the bottom of the barrel price is based on the wide availability of both the speakers and plentiful stocks of replacements. It just turns out no one wants orphan parts, even though there is zero difference. Casual consumers with a little bit of cash that wanted the big stereo of their dreams from the 70's end up buying these things anyway and they don't replace drivers. Broken stuff tends to never work again. I guess someone at some point thought eventually people were going to want them so there's plenty left cheap. 140 is not bad, but 75 bucks from someone that is tired of seeing them in the garage the last decade for another pair is even better.

I never will understand that whole thing. They have outperformed million dollar systems at 2000 seat venues IMO based on bumper music before a show that was the same as something I had. I've heard a few sets of classic beloved speakers myself and think it's as good or better.

I didn't know decent speaker drivers were so expensive as replacement parts. There's so much design that goes into a driver that it would be heartbreaking to fundamentally change the way your speakers work, so there is always an advantage to re-coning. I had no idea. I thought you know, they make a model for a few years and sell the excess stock to wholesalers and make few thousand extra units to get one last payday out of the design.


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