Home » Audio » Craftsmen » I know you hate t-nuts so (mounting drivers)
I know you hate t-nuts so [message #64015] Thu, 09 September 2010 17:20 Go to next message
steve f is currently offline  steve f
Messages: 236
Registered: May 2009
Master
Everybody hates hurricane nuts. Some aren't too fond of regular t-nuts. I've a bag of "barbed body insert nuts" that appear to be made of zinc. I'm mounting some Peerless XLS 10" woofers to Baltic plywood. My question is are these any good? T-nuts don't require quite as big of holes so close to the baffle hole. I don't have any of Bill's fancy threaded inserts. Your comments please.

Steve
icon14.gif  T-Nuts [message #64016 is a reply to message #64015] Thu, 09 September 2010 19:49 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne Parham is currently offline  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18675
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)

Personally, I like T-Nuts. The trick is to pull them into place with a screw rather than to tap them in. I put a dab of epoxy or poly glue on them too.

Re: I know you hate t-nuts so [message #64017 is a reply to message #64015] Thu, 09 September 2010 22:06 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Bob Brines is currently offline  Bob Brines
Messages: 186
Registered: May 2009
Location: Hot Springs Village, AR
Master
Threaded inserts are the only way to go. T-nuts are bound to fail in MDF and you have to be very careful about bending the tangs in plywood. Inserts will hold in MDF with moderate care and are firm in plywood. Those toothed inserts will be difficult to seat in plywood without damaging the area around the hole unless the hole made overly large.

Bob
T-Nuts [message #64018 is a reply to message #64017] Fri, 10 September 2010 00:03 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne Parham is currently offline  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18675
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)

Yeah, the tangs will fold up if you beat them in, especially the cheap ones. But when I pull them in with a screw, I don't have any problem, even in strong baltic birch plywood. I think adding the dab of glue helps too, because the biggest problem is having one come loose.

This process works very well for me, and it's important to have a 100% solution in my basshorn subs because a failure would cause a major repair problem, possibly even turning a $3000 cabinet into scrap. The woofers are mounted internally, and you can't really get behind the panels to access the T-Nut once it is in place. It is a long way inside the cabinet, behind panels that are buried inside.

Re: T-Nuts [message #64020 is a reply to message #64018] Fri, 10 September 2010 16:05 Go to previous messageGo to next message
steve f is currently offline  steve f
Messages: 236
Registered: May 2009
Master
I found another way to mount t-nuts. I 'set' them in the plywood by giving them a gentle tap with a hammer. This prevents them from falling out. I like Wayne's idea of adding a dab of glue to each fastener. Then, instead of drawing them down with a screw, I pressed them into place with a Pony clamp. Works like a charm and there is no added stress to the threads. When I was a kid I used this method to put pistons back into brake calipers.

Steve
Re: T-Nuts [message #64021 is a reply to message #64020] Fri, 10 September 2010 16:08 Go to previous message
Wayne Parham is currently offline  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18675
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)

Yes, that's a great idea too. I press brake pistons back in with a C-clamp, and agree with you, it would work very well.

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