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Any pictures of the three pi? [message #40425] Wed, 26 February 2003 10:00 Go to next message
massappeal85 is currently offline  massappeal85
Messages: 13
Registered: May 2009
Chancellor
I've searched the forums and the only ones I found were Steve Brown's thermionics. Does anyone have any other pictures, or Wayne do you have any pictures of those that you've built yourself?
π photos [message #40426 is a reply to message #40425] Wed, 26 February 2003 11:18 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne Parham is currently offline  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18683
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)
The Theater Series three π Speakers are very popular, so I'm sure you'll get some feedback. For photos, you might like Danny's web page at http://dsb.8m.com/pipics/pipics.htm. We also maintain a directory of DIY π Speaker photos at http://www.PiSpeakers.com/DIY.
Re: π photos [message #40443 is a reply to message #40426] Thu, 27 February 2003 15:46 Go to previous messageGo to next message
massappeal85 is currently offline  massappeal85
Messages: 13
Registered: May 2009
Chancellor
A few questions for you actually,

I've read some differing opinions on wether the woofer or tweeter should be flush mounted. I'd kind of like to for aesthetics and to reduce diffraction, but I think I read somebody say that even with a 1" baffle there isn't enough "meat" for the screws to bite into and provide a good hold. What do you think?

Also, am I gonna need a gasket for the woofer or horn and what kind of material do you reccomend if I do? The eminence website says the drivers come fitted with their own gaskets, but wanted to make sure.

Re: All kinds of ways to cheat [message #40446 is a reply to message #40443] Thu, 27 February 2003 18:25 Go to previous messageGo to next message
BillEpstein is currently offline  BillEpstein
Messages: 886
Registered: May 2009
Illuminati (2nd Degree)
This is how I "flush" mounted mine. You can just see the rounded over panel that surrounds the woofer on the Theatre 4Pi at the rear. Make one centering hole in two pieces of baffle. Cut one circle at 13+" for the woofer to mount to and the other the 15+" to go around it. Easy. Could do the same for the horn.

Your handiwork is excellent [message #40449 is a reply to message #40446] Thu, 27 February 2003 20:57 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne Parham is currently offline  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18683
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)
I always thought your speakers looked great! And I'm really pleased to see that you and Martinelli are having a woodworking seminar in Lima!!!
Re: π photos [message #40450 is a reply to message #40443] Thu, 27 February 2003 21:49 Go to previous message
Wayne Parham is currently offline  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18683
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)
I think flush mounting is a matter of aesthetics more than anything else. I've read opinions about audible diffraction from the edge of a driver, but I don't think it is significant. After all, we're talking about a 1/4" thickness here, and the frequency that has half-wavelength of 1/4" is 27kHz. So of the differing opinions, mine is in the "doesn't matter" category. But as for aesthetics, some of the most attractive speakers I've seen had flush mounted drivers. Aesthetics are an extremely important consideration; After all, loudspeakers are furniture and we'd prefer them to be pleasing to the eyes as well as the ears.

About driver mounting, you can always increase baffle thickness or to add "meat" in the places where the screws will be placed. One can add material just where the screws will be or a thicker panel can be used for the whole front baffle. Sure can't hurt.

As for gasket material, Eminence cone speakers come with a thick paper gasket both on the front and rear mounting surface and JBL parts come with a large O-Ring for the rear and a gasket for the front. Honestly, I prefer that these be the only gaskets used, and I like to use them dry. That way, if there is ever a need to service, it is not a messy affair. But this requires some dilligence in cutting the right size hole and having it cut perfectly round so that there is sufficient sealing surface.

I like to run the speakers at a loud level for a period of time and feel around each joint for gusts of air. The most common places to find leaks are around the drivers and horns, but sometimes you'll also find them on amplifier connection panels or even at corners of the cabinet. If one finds that a seal isn't adequate, then gasket fill material should be added.

I've found that caulking material works well in these situation. My favorite is the non-hardening "tar-like" material sold by hardware stores and even places like Parts Express. But you can also use a silicon gel that cures non-pliable just as well.

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