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Re: Bias supply [message #31720 is a reply to message #31719] |
Thu, 26 January 2006 11:17 |
Damir
Messages: 1005 Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (2nd Degree) |
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Arrgh! Everything is complicated...even a simple schematic like this is complicated in the real world when you must mechanicaly fix those parts, drill a holes, solder a few wires...disgusting hobby...:-) http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=tubediy&n=59322&highlight=Building+Valve+Amplifiers&r=&session=
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Re: Bias supply [message #31722 is a reply to message #31721] |
Thu, 26 January 2006 13:04 |
Damir
Messages: 1005 Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (2nd Degree) |
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"So; let me ask truthfully; this really isn't a novice project is it?" Well, it can be - but all the parts of the project must be worked out in detail, and good order. It can be simplified - without CCS, PP grid choke and fixed bias, but... If we use fixed bias we must have a negative bias supply and bias pots. Power supply is not present on the original schematic. If we have the PT with additional 50-60V "bias" winding, we can use it with Graetz bridge for the bias voltage, plus additional filter for the CCS. We need HV winding of about 350V-0-350V or little more, rectifier tube and choke input filter. Probably another LC filter for the front end. Ideally, four 2,5V/2,5A windings, too, 5V for the rectifier and another 6,3V for the driver...
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Should you consider Anything involving high voltages novice work? [message #31723 is a reply to message #31721] |
Thu, 26 January 2006 13:14 |
Old Brown Eyes
Messages: 25 Registered: May 2009
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Chancellor |
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It is amazing how far one can go basically doing a "paint by numbers" approach. But nobody should ever forget that they are messing around with stuff that can kill. Add to that fact that your family members might be using this stuff and we really need to go the extra mile and make sure we know what we are doing. Now that is not to say everybody needs to be able to design Doug's amp themselves to be qualified to build it but IMHO you should at least have a grasp of what each part is doing and why it is in the circuit. Or to put it another way, how can you be sure what you built is safe if you don't know what half the parts are and what they are doing in the circuit? Doug is a nice guy and all but you owe it to yourself to be able to double check his work and see that it is safe (I am sure Doug would agree and not take offense at this comment). So no, tube audio isn't a "novice" thing. Guess that means you are not as much of a novice as you think you are huh? The Seth is "simpler" on paper. I got to hear one at my house last night but I can't comment until the other mono block is done and I get to hear it in stereo. Russ
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Re: Should you consider Anything involving high voltages novice work? [message #31726 is a reply to message #31723] |
Thu, 26 January 2006 18:08 |
PakProtector
Messages: 935 Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (2nd Degree) |
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Hey-Hey!!!, Hey Russ, I would like nothing more than a prospective builder questioning my work. The criticism is not something to be feared, it is a proper check of the design. Question everything, it's the answers you don't get answers to that ought to cause concern.Have your friend email me, I have a neat and useful improvement to the circuit. One of my mates up here has built a pair and reported favourably on the tweak. It is also free. For manualblock, the Seth is a simple PP 2A3 circuit. Peerless S-240-Q output, phase splitting choke, and a high gain triode driving one end of it. CCS or resistive parafeed drive to the choke which is attached to the 2A3's grids. One of Magnaquest's distributors dreamed it up. It became viable with the modification to Mike's EXO-173 he and I worked out. I published a frequency response table on the prototype( on AA's Tube DIY ). Since I like doing the phase splitting with a tube( tubes actually ), I was never happy with driving an interleaved CT choke with a balanced drive. Some experimentation I did indicated it was likely due to the added winding capacitance the interleave caused. For a 2A3 driving a less-than-flat speaker impedance, 6k6 is a better a-a load. If you want to stay in the Peerless 20-20 series, the OPTx in question goes by S-230-Q. This is the OPTx I am going to get wound for my wife's 2A3 project, Galahad. The Peerless spec on idle current is 70 mA/leg which is well within the 2A3's 60-65 mA idle current. cheers, Douglas
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patience... [message #31727 is a reply to message #31721] |
Thu, 26 January 2006 18:18 |
PakProtector
Messages: 935 Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (2nd Degree) |
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Hey-Hey!!!, This amp is not all that hard. A volt meter will be all that's required to build the first one. You'll need to be able to adjust bias and adjust the front end g2 voltage with a resistor swap if you don't guess well. A measurement of the neutralization caps would be nice, but I'll offer some TFE insulated coax I have some experience with to anybody who wants to build.I am going to lay it out, and drill most of the holes, but my wife is going to do the rest. There isn't too much that I or somebody else on the forum can't answer as far as detailed questions go. troubleshooting isn't going to be an issue for some complex NFB compensation issue because there isn't any in Galahad. It's all open loop. Which is why I specified 6k6 instead of 5k a-a load. Slightly better damping from the bigger a-a load. cheers, Douglas
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