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Re: 4 Pi Design Questions [message #62304 is a reply to message #62303] Wed, 07 April 2010 21:55 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne Parham is currently offline  Wayne Parham
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Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)

That's it!

Re: 4 Pi Design Questions [message #63208 is a reply to message #62304] Sun, 20 June 2010 08:18 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Nichol1997 is currently offline  Nichol1997
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Wayne,
It has been brought to my attention that I did not use the latest crossover design for my 4 Pi build. Specifically, C4 is labeled as 10uF in the plans dated January 30, 2008.

I used a 20uF capacitor. I am wondering if I need to change it to correspond with the latest design. Can you tell me the impacts of this change?
Re: 4 Pi Design Questions [message #63211 is a reply to message #63208] Sun, 20 June 2010 08:54 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne Parham is currently offline  Wayne Parham
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Registered: January 2001
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I would swap it, yes. It's an easy change worth doing. The position of the forward lobe is shifted up slightly, more aligned with the baffle normal, i.e. straightforward. With the 20uF cap, it points slightly downward but with the 10uF cap, it's almost perfectly centered.

Re: 4 Pi Design Questions [message #64648 is a reply to message #63211] Thu, 11 November 2010 21:11 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Nichol1997 is currently offline  Nichol1997
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Registered: December 2009
Location: Virginia
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I thought I would post some pictures now that I finally finished putting the finish on them.

http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/4232/dscn1441g.th.jpg

http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/6747/dscn1442h.th.jpg

http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/5870/dscn1447t.th.jpg

http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/3356/dscn1439u.th.jpg

By the way, I swapped the 20uF caps to the 10uF caps and I haven't noticed much difference. Of course it has been 5 months since I heard them with the old caps so that could be part of the reason.
Re: 4 Pi Design Questions [message #64649 is a reply to message #61737] Thu, 11 November 2010 22:06 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Psychoacoustic is currently offline  Psychoacoustic
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Registered: May 2009
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They look great! Well done on finishing them.
I've still got 7 Pis in beautiful MDF!
Re: 4 Pi Design Questions [message #64650 is a reply to message #64648] Fri, 12 November 2010 07:52 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne Parham is currently offline  Wayne Parham
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Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)

Nichol1997 wrote on Thu, 11 November 2010 21:11
By the way, I swapped the 10uF caps to the 20uF caps and I haven't noticed much difference. Of course it has been 5 months since I heard them with the old caps so that could be part of the reason.

It's very subtle, in fact, I'm not sure that even describes it. In some listening positions, it does nothing at all. The only thing that's changed is the position of the forward lobe, shifted slightly upward.

The original cap had the forward lobe pointing down about 5°. The pattern was good from about -30° to +20°. The new cap centers the forward lobe, so the pattern is good from -25° to +25°. If you're not listening way above or way below the speaker, it sounds the same.

Re: 4 Pi Design Questions [message #64651 is a reply to message #61737] Fri, 12 November 2010 09:41 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Doc Jr 8156 is currently offline  Doc Jr 8156
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Registered: May 2009
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Great looking speakers! Wayne, what is the consequence of not having R3 installed? My crossover (from a kit) has none of this. Is it imperative to use a 100 watter 8 ohm resistor or could I get away with a 15 watt non inductive 8ohm resistor? Thanks and sorry for asking these here.
Re: 4 Pi Design Questions [message #64658 is a reply to message #64651] Fri, 12 November 2010 14:44 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne Parham is currently offline  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18793
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)

If you're using the TD12S woofer (used only in the three π loudspeaker), you don't need R3 but on all other models, you do. If you omit this resistor on any of the models that call for it, you'll have a pretty nasty peak in the upper midrange, near the crossover frequency. This is true for all versions of the four π loudspeaker.

You can derate any component, provided power input is reduced accordingly. That said, I would not suggest derating any of them because it never hurts to keep things cool.

See the Speaker Crossover document for more information. An example of the peak you'll get if you remove R3 is shown on page 43 and the power transfer curve for this component is shown on page 66.

Re: 4 Pi Design Questions [message #72745 is a reply to message #64658] Thu, 17 May 2012 19:38 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Nichol1997 is currently offline  Nichol1997
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Registered: December 2009
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I finally got around to measuring my modified Pi4 speakers. Attached is the nearfield frequency response using Room Eq Wizard version 5.

I am still learning how to use the software and hardware so I am not sure if I am measuring it correctly. I had the mic mounted on a stand that was 16" from the baffle and just a little bit below the throat of the compression driver on the vertical.

My measurement gear consists of:
HP laptop w/ Windows XP
MobilePre USB external soundcard
Behringer ECM8000 mic
Behringer EP2500 (ran the MobilePre USB directly to the amp)

To me, the measurement makes it look like my woofers are out of phase. I only measured the right speaker. I will have to wait until it is quiet in the house again before I can measure the left speaker.
Re: 4 Pi Design Questions [message #72746 is a reply to message #72745] Thu, 17 May 2012 22:46 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
Wayne Parham is currently offline  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18793
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)

You may have the woofer or tweeter leads reversed. But redo your measurement first, because measurements made like you are doing always create notches from boundary reflections.

Lay the speaker on it's back and position the microphone one meter (or more) above it, facing the upper half of the midwoofer cone. This orientation will prevent a floor bounce notch, and it puts the microphone in the center of the forward lobe. You can usually get away with indoors measurements when done this way, if all you care about is response in the crossover region, but you'll have no visibility below a few hundred Hertz. It will be peaky if ungated, or meaningless if gated. Of course, it never hurts to take the speakers outdoors, which is truly anechoic. You'll still want to lay the speaker on it's back, or you can put the microphone on the ground and angle the speaker down to face it.

This is what you should expect to see, measurements from two different people using two different measurement systems:
I realize your speaker is a modded version, but if the only difference is box size, then I would expect most changes to be below 200Hz. So setup your measurement as described above, and if you don't see a chart like this, check your connections and crossover.


http://www.pispeakers.com/Measurements/fourPi_response.gif


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