I've decided on overkill: double front baffles (1 1/2" total)and four windowpane (if that's the right term) braces per cabinet: one between the tweeter and woofer, and three more between the woofer and the 5" round port (thanks, Wayne!), which I'm placing on the front. The maximum space between any two braces is about 10".

Because the braces are the same size as the cabinet tops and bottoms, I cut them at the same time and with the same fence settings on my trusty Ryobi BT3100, which I love. I'm happy to report that they fit perfectly. I have no idea whether it will make an audible difference, but I rounded over the interior brace edges to make sure there were no sharp projections.

Come to think of it, maybe I'll round over the inside edges of the driver cutouts. Am I crazy? Any other tips/suggestions?

Can you believe it -- I've run out a glue! What a pain.

Some pictures of the construction process to date are at the link below.

• Studio 2 Tower Construction Pix

Are you planning to route the baffles for flush mount drivers?

Absolutely, both drivers will be flush mounted. Thanks again for your help.

Nice job.

• Studio Two Tower Construction Pix

Which of course I borrowed from someone else...........

I've decided I'm going to try something new (for me) for the outer front baffles: a piece of MDF, veneered, with outer 1" - 2" edges of solid hardwood, rounded over, all around. That way, I won't have to veneer the roundovers, which has caused me problems before. I don't have a jointer, but I'm hoping my Ryobi BT3100 will give me clean enough cuts that I'll be able to biscuit the edges to the MDF cleanly.

Now, if only it would stop snowing (!) and warm up!

• Studio 2 Tower Construction Pix

• Various Stuff

12" Titanic sub which is on the chopping block as Wayne has provided me with the 60"X19.5X19.5 design that will make it FLAT TO 16HZ!!!!!!!
Oh Yeah!

• My Stupid Website