Home » Audio » Craftsmen » First routing experiences less than rousing
First routing experiences less than rousing [message #29186] Sun, 01 August 2004 14:24 Go to next message
lon is currently offline  lon
Messages: 760
Registered: May 2009
Illuminati (2nd Degree)

I am using a rotozip-type tool with a 3/8 rabetting bit
on a 1/4 shank and collet.


As might be expected, this tool has its prob.'s from
being too lightweight to do much. The bit is cheap too
because this is all trial work for me on a first
from-scratch project.


So before I make any more pieces just suitable
to roast weenies over, my first question is this:


I'm using the tool counter-clockwise in the
prescribed manner but I'm getting way too much
tearout on the edges to make these baffle cuts worth
finishing off. Also there's some smoke involved and the
bit edges have blackened.


The material is birch ply from the local home Depot.


I have a few blanks left to get this technique down.
How can I eliminate the tearout? Is it just a dull bit or
something to do with grain direction? Or is it a problem
handling the tool itself? A couple of my samples turned
out pretty good with rabbets front side and chamfers on the
rear. But I can't get any consistency. One practice piece
looks like a daisy from what looks like hitting a knot. :-|


Well enough of that for today. I have a filing
cabinet to put together of the "Insert Flap "A" and
Throw It Away" type. :-)


lon@athenet.net

Re:Insert flap "A" and throw...... [message #29187 is a reply to message #29186] Sun, 01 August 2004 16:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
BillEpstein is currently offline  BillEpstein
Messages: 886
Registered: May 2009
Illuminati (2nd Degree)
....the Roto-zip away. Hopefully you bought it at the Depot as well.In which case you can return it and the accessories and get a 40 or 50 dollar Ryobi plunge router which will do all you need.
If not possible, hold on for dear life and make several passes that are maybe 1/4" of the rabbett at a time. Then make the finish pass and finally, go clockwise, known as a "climb cut" to finish the edges.
The Roto and Dremel tools are for making outlet cuts in drywall and thin sheet metal. Also OK for polishing and small grinding. Everything else is wishful thinking.

Gee, they work so well in the ads.... [message #29188 is a reply to message #29187] Sun, 01 August 2004 20:55 Go to previous messageGo to next message
wunhuanglo is currently offline  wunhuanglo
Messages: 912
Registered: May 2009
Illuminati (2nd Degree)
;-^

Re:Insert flap "A" and throw...... [message #29189 is a reply to message #29187] Sun, 01 August 2004 21:50 Go to previous messageGo to next message
lon is currently offline  lon
Messages: 760
Registered: May 2009
Illuminati (2nd Degree)

That's a good tip on back-cutting clockwise. Was wondering if I
was using too much pressure laterally too.


The machine has got a good enough workout that returning it
would be real problematic. There's still a laminate gizmo
to play with for flush trim and a circle cutter. The whole
shebang ony cost $30... not including the standard router bits
I bought. I have a diamond stone... may I can touch up the bit
and get the -- melted glue or whatever black crud is on it.

File cabinet is upright. Drawers not done yet-- too hot here.




Re: Gee, they work so well in the ads.... [message #29190 is a reply to message #29188] Sun, 01 August 2004 21:55 Go to previous messageGo to next message
lon is currently offline  lon
Messages: 760
Registered: May 2009
Illuminati (2nd Degree)

Bwhahahahahaha!


No ads for this one-- it's the Tool Shop brand packaged
for Menards.


I have this thing set up in a spare room where I live.


If I got _real tools_ management might blow a gasket. As it
is I do my couple of passes when the parking lot is empty.
I'm like Bob Brines who also practices the craft in an apartment.




Mine works fine [message #29191 is a reply to message #29190] Mon, 02 August 2004 13:59 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Bill Fitzmaurice is currently offline  Bill Fitzmaurice
Messages: 335
Registered: May 2009
Grand Master
On drywall, that is- wonderful for making electrical box cut-outs. If you're going to do any serious routing here's the skinny: Don't bother with less than 2 horsepower, go 1/2" collet size and run only carbide bits. Burning comes from overheating the workpiece and that happens when the bit is cutting too slow; you either need more power or less cutting depth so that you can keep the bit moving at a proper pace. Like all tools a nice one is a joy to work with, a cheap one is not worth having.

I learned some things Re: Mine works fine [message #29193 is a reply to message #29191] Tue, 03 August 2004 15:05 Go to previous message
lon is currently offline  lon
Messages: 760
Registered: May 2009
Illuminati (2nd Degree)


I think Mr. Epstein also had some help with the
routing stuff so here is my update on what I learned.


First I sharpened my bets on a simple kitchen knife
diamond stone... it is getting pretty worn down anyway.


Then I did incremental cuts which improveds things
immensely.


The peduliar thing I noticed was that the cut would
consistently be uneven-- one side higher than another.
It must have been my technique so I just worked
from the opposite side of the piece so the pressure
was evened out.


Result: a smooth even cut which I was able to edge
sand to get the tear-out smoothed.


No smoke this time. ;-)


lon@athenet.net



Previous Topic: Jasper Jig on Sale at PE
Next Topic: Couple of Poly questions
Goto Forum:
  


Current Time: Sun Nov 03 15:22:26 CST 2024

Sponsoring Organizations

DIY Audio Projects
DIY Audio Projects
OddWatt Audio
OddWatt Audio
Pi Speakers
Pi Speakers
Prosound Shootout
Prosound Shootout
Miller Audio
Miller Audio
Tubes For Amps
TubesForAmps.com

Lone Star Audiofest