Wayne Parham Messages: 18783 Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)
No, the H395 is not a suitable substitute for the H290. To be honest, I never cared much for that horn. The sharp edges within the flare cause discontinuities that make internal reflections, ultimately creating spikes in impedance and response. The H395 horn sounds harsh and spitty to me, as do all horns like that.
Wayne Parham Messages: 18783 Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)
There are plenty of good horns out there, some that I would consider to be compatible, at least conceptually. The difficulty is knowing how they'll act in terms of summing, both on-axis and off-axis. Not only does response matter but also directivity and physical position, because each plays its part in setting the acoustic position and radiation pattern of the sound source. This makes it harder to know whether a horn will work as a drop-in replacement, or if crossover changes will be needed.
Without doing some fairly extensive tests and measurements, I'd stick with the H290 or the π wood horn.
This is my first post so Thanks for making this forum so informative
I was thinking of modifying a pi 3, The main idea is to use a tractrix horn to load the B&C DE250 . The horns mounted on top of the pi 3 main cabinets. Has anyone attempted something like that before (with pi 3 or pi 4)? Any thoughts? I am prepared to do measurements and modifications to the xover.
Wayne Parham Messages: 18783 Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)
There have been several people that have done that over the years. Of course, this changes the polar response of the speakers. One of my main focuses has been uniform directivity, so this isn't something I recommend. But you can certainly mount a salad bowl type horn on top and optimize the speaker for on-axis response. Off-axis response isn't as good, but there are lots of people that really like this kind of setup.
Wayne Parham Messages: 18783 Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)
One thing I think I'd still do it to match the horizontal directivity at crossover. That way, directivity collapses over the entire audio band. I would prefer constant directivity, but I think uniformly collapsing directivity is the next best thing. At least then the power response can be uniformly falling too. Keep the woofer and tweeter as close as possible to make the vertical nulls spaced as widely apart as they can be above and below the forward axis.
That is going to be a difficult task. I am prepared to do measurements and fine tuning. One thing is for sure, it is going to take me at least a couple of months. Thank you for your early educated feedback.
I'd rather not spend couple months doing all that!! and I know that Wayne has done a thorough and sound job in all his calculations and tests, so I'm comfortable relying on them. People like Wayne and Paul Joppa at Bottlehead help keep a hobby a hobby for a lot us by doing the math and doing it right (unlike many in this business). thanks guys.
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