for me. I loved the sound stage and the bass and the clearest micro

details I have ever heard. I love the way they made me feel like

the singer was in the room just the treble ripped my head off.

I am looking to use a diffrent fostex or any other driver that is

fullrange. Maybe the fostex fe 108 ez a 4 inch dirver. I have heard a

lot of go things for this driver. If you can help me or give some

advise please do. I want to build my own speakers. Buying is not

fun. You can say I built them my self. Also do any other company

have at it factor or the speakers just vanish and it sounds like

they are singing in front of you. Wow I can not get that sound out

of my head. I love the single drive sound just not the brite treble

beaming sound in your face. Please let me know thanks jm

Do you know of a good sounding eq? Thanks!

I think this driver with the BSC would still be much better then the FE-207E version, you would not loose any of the powerful magnet dynamics only a little high end efficiency by rebalancing the SPL response. People who have built my ML TL design with the FE-206E have been very pleased, the feedback has been extremely positive.

Martin

• Quarter Wavelength Loudspeaker Design

Also look under the General Speaker Related Articles link for some info on BSC circuits, in particular the variable BSC article.

Hope that helps,

Martin

• Quarter Wavelength Loudspeaker Design

My cabinets are approx. 45 liters volume with a 3" Dia. x 3"long port.
The cabinet is an odd shape though.

Perhaps I could call you? My number is 310-202-1862 LA, California.

After reading the June Stereophile article on the fine quality and sound of the old C-500 Fisher recievers tone controls, etc...
I'm considering sending my Dad's old Fisher CX2-400 their top pre-amp to Fisher Radio for rebuilding primarily so I could us the tone controls, sound crazy?

Thanks again for you expertise!
Sincerely, Peter

"Unfortunatly I am unable to open the links associated with your project articles. Perhaps you could email them separatly for me concerning the 206. I have been looking into graphic and parametric
EQ's. Any suggestion as to which sounds better? Active vrs. passive?
Looking at your correction circuits, it looks like there is no avoiding adding to my signal path."

I don't know anything about equilizers. I tend to design my own circuits for each speaker I build. This process is based on calculations, measurements, and finally listening. The circuits always need a little tweaking to get everything just right.

"I would like to give your circuit a listen. I'm using consonance SET M500 9 watt mono blocks and a passive/pre. I would greatly appreciate it if would please list for me specifically which components you would recommend for me with maybe three different resistor values I could swap out. Schematic also of course.
Please be specific with value, brand, tolerance etc.. so I may simply goto the electronics store or pick up the phone to parts express."

Your amp should be fine with the circuit, you have plenty of power. The circuit I recommend for my Fostex FE-206E design is virtually the same as the one I use with my Lowther ML TL. That is because the enclosure is the same. The Lowther schematic and parts list can be found at :

http://www.quarter-wave.com/Project04/Parts_List_DX3.pdf

The circuit adapted for the FE-206E can be found at :

http://www.quarter-wave.com/Project05/BSC_Circuit.pdf

Both circuits are designed for this enclosure :

http://www.quarter-wave.com/Project05/ML_TL_Enclosure.pdf

If you enclosure looks different from the one I built you will need to redesign the circuit. An excellent design tool for BSC design can be found at :

http://www.tolvan.com/edge/

Input your geometry and driver dimensions and it will plot the baffle step response. My MathCad version produces almost identical results so I am very comfortable recommending it for others to use.

"My cabinets are approx. 45 liters volume with a 3" Dia. x 3"long port. The cabinet is an odd shape though."

The Edge progam is your best bet for sizing the circuit. Worst case you try a couple of different inductors and resistors until you get a combination that works with your speakers in your room/set-up.

"Perhaps I could call you? My number is 310-202-1862 LA, California."

I really prefer forums and e-mails, it allows me to think about the question and then write the best possible answer that I can provide.

"After reading the June Stereophile article on the fine quality and sound of the old C-500 Fisher recievers tone controls, etc...
I'm considering sending my Dad's old Fisher CX2-400 their top pre-amp to Fisher Radio for rebuilding primarily so I could us the tone controls, sound crazy?"

Afraid I stopped reading Stereophile years ago and don't know anything about tube equipment. Sorry, not much help with those questions.

Martin

• Quarter Wavelength Loudspeaker Design

As some one who has tried active & passive crossovers, I would say I prefer active, but that's only for my setup. In the right setup, passive can be as good.

PArametric equalizers are WAYY better than graphic ones for almost any application. For your applications, a prametric equalizer would work, but not a graphic one.

I wold recommned that you try the passive eq that MArtin does, and keep your signal path simple to start with. If you are just using one driverm, then there is no choice but to use passive components or a parametric EQ.

-akhilesh