| Re: 2Pi Tower Build [message #94175 is a reply to message #94173] |
Mon, 09 August 2021 11:11   |
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Wayne Parham
Messages: 18787
Registered: January 2001
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Illuminati (33rd Degree) |
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I'm sure others will chime in but I'll throw in my 2ยข:
MDF is heavy, but I have two Pi towers made of MDF and they aren't too bad. Either thickness is fine - no advantage or disadvantage either way - because the rigidity is created by the braces, not the panel thickness. Do be sure your port size is appropriate for the panel thickness though. Port diameter depends on panel thickness, as is shown in the notes on the plans.
Also be sure you install the insulation as described in the plans. It is very important. You want the insulation spanning the cross-section as well as on the cabinet sides.
The crossover components that come with the kit are very good. You get Solen polypropylene caps and Jantzen air-core coils. We supply the internal wiring too. I don't think any upgrades are necessary.
A terminal plate comes with the kits. It mounts using a 2-1/8" x 2-7/8" hole. On most loudspeaker models, we put it 3" up from the bottom. But on the towers, we put it higher on the cabinet, just below the midwoofer. They're good posts, but you can get Cardas binding posts instead, if you want.
I like to use black oxide #8 pan head wood screws for the one Pi and two Pi models. But on larger models, I like using button head 10-32 screws and T-Nuts or threaded inserts. You could do that, if you want.
Lastly, there's no difference in performance between surface-mounted drivers and flush-mounted drivers. It's purely aesthetics.
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