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Re: Skywave's 3 Pi Build [message #75575 is a reply to message #75574] Wed, 20 February 2013 11:13 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
Wayne Parham is currently offline  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18786
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)

skywave-rider wrote on Wed, 20 February 2013 11:06
OK, I moved parts from my breadboard to the Pi PC board. I don't have enough of the correct value resistors for the HF attenuation circuit, so I improvised. What I have is a total of 30 Ohms (single 30 Ohm, jumpering R1B) in the R1 position and 14 Ohms (2 paralleled 20 Ohms to a 4 Ohm in series) in the R2 position. Let me know if I did anything stupid.

I will order Mills resistors in the correct amounts and values so the crossover will be able to handle full rated power. At the moment there is no chance anything will become warm.

Looks good! You're on your way to having a top-notch speaker!

Your resistors will work that way, but, yeah, when you get the Mills, it will be better 'cause not only will it take full rated power but even at lower power levels, the resistors will stay very cool. That's always good.

I see you drilled holes for component leads, as most circuit boards are done. I didn't do that because I normally put the board on a gasket and mount directly to the inside bottom panel of the cabinet. The solder pads would protrude if I did it this way, so I mount the components on the solder side. But if you use stand-offs for mounting or use a really thick gasket, the solder pads won't protrude into the wood panel.

http://www.pispeakers.com/misc/pcb_gasket_outline.jpg

 
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