Home » Sponsored » Pi Speakers » skywave's 3Pi subwoofer build (skywave's 3Pi subwoofer build)
Re: skywave's 3Pi subwoofer build [message #71620 is a reply to message #71617] Thu, 01 March 2012 15:02 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
Wayne Parham is currently offline  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18785
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)

I like using T-nuts for the larger drivers, 10-32 size with button head or hex head screws. Wood screws are fine for dome tweeters and small cone speakers, but I do like something a bit more substantial for horns and larger prosound drivers. Some people prefer threaded inserts - and those are great too - but I've worked through all the problems you commonly run into with T-nuts so I'm good with them. The trick is to get good T-nuts (like from Midwest Fastener) and pull them into the wood before assembly.

Don't beat them in with a hammer, and don't pull them in place when you're putting the speaker together. Use a washer and a sacrificial screw (or three) to gradually pull the T-Nut in by tightening it down. Only use the screw to pull-in three or four T-nuts, then discard it and get a new one. I also recommend a drop of PL adhesive on each T-Nut to hold it firmly in place.

Don't skimp on this step. You are planning for the T-Nuts to last the life of the cabinet, and to provide you with trouble-free, serviceable access. If you install them as I've described, they'll be that for you. But if you don't, they can be a real pain. Every time I hear of someone complaining about T-Nuts, they're in one of these categories:

1. Tapped the T-Nuts in with a hammer - The tangs bent, and the T-Nut is loose, held only by the screw clamping force. So when you loosen the screw, the T-Nut spins. Makes it really hard to get the speaker out for service.
2. Didn't put a spot of epoxy on the T-Nut - Even if the tangs go in straight, a few knocks on the head of a partially loosened screw can make the T-Nuts come loose. They hold pretty well, but it's easy insurance to add a dab of PL adhesive during assembly. Just a dab though, don't get any on the threads.
3. Pulled the T-Nuts in with a screw, as described, but used the same screw over and over again, damaging the T-Nut threads - Sacrifice the screw, only use it to set two or three T-Nuts. You don't want them to have damaged threads, 'cause once they're installed, they're permanent.

Put 'em in right, and they'll last a lifetime, giving you trouble-free serviceable access. But put 'em in wrong, and you'll be frustrated to no end when it's time for a woofer to come out.

 
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Previous Topic: Alternate idea for 7Pi midhorn enclosure?
Next Topic: Information about the 3 Pi Subwoofer
Goto Forum:
  


Current Time: Thu Nov 21 12:23:34 CST 2024

Sponsoring Organizations

DIY Audio Projects
DIY Audio Projects
OddWatt Audio
OddWatt Audio
Pi Speakers
Pi Speakers
Prosound Shootout
Prosound Shootout
Miller Audio
Miller Audio
Tubes For Amps
TubesForAmps.com

Lone Star Audiofest