1. There's no reason why you couldn't build as you described but the convention seems to be to have the front and back full width and everything else inside them; that's the way I've built everything. It enables you to build a 4 sided-box squared up by the top, bottom and a pair of window frame braces, then attach first the back, then the front after making cut-outs. Putting the front on last gives you room to install added bracing, stuffing and the wireing harness.2. I recommend 2 window frames dividing the cabinet unequally augmented with 1x4 pine or poplar glued and screwed to the sides vertically, then cross-braced. Watch that none of the bracing interferes with the drivers.
3. Go with Wayne's rec of R-13 with the paper removed on 3 walls; that's science and none of the voodoo you'll see around the web.
4. Don't know but I think they're important and used Edison Price pure tellurium copper when they were still available. Now I use Pomona gold-plated tellurium copper
5. The simple 2Pi crossover has the tweeter cap attached directly to the tweeter terminals and the bass can be caulked to the bottom anywhere nearby or nested in the fiberglass on the bottom as Wayne recommends.
Here's an article I wrote on building a near-2Pi
Have fun, find your own path but listen to Wayne, I do.
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