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Re: Pic 1 [message #50266 is a reply to message #50261] Mon, 13 November 2006 22:11 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
Shane is currently offline  Shane
Messages: 1117
Registered: May 2009
Illuminati (3rd Degree)
Well, my cabs are all MDF, not plywood. I used butt-joints as you can tell. The rear panel, sides, and top/bottom I reinforced with dowels at the glue joints. I just used clamps to hold it all together while it dried. The front of mine is a 1/2" MDF panel with a 1/4" or 3/8" (I can't remember now) panel glued right on top of it and held in place with screws which will get removed later on. I cut the holes in the 3/4" front big enough for the basket of the driver, then cut holes in the thinner piece as large as the outside diameter of the speaker for a recessed look. Since I didn't have a circle jig for my router at the time, this seemed to work.

The braces are just pieces of 3/4" MDF that I cut out the corners on. I cut these pieces on my table saw at the same time I cut the sides/top/bottom so they were the exact same size front to rear. An easier method is just to cut some braces that are 1 1/2"-2" wide and put them in a cross pattern. Or cut a square piece like I did and cut the middle out for a window frame type of brace. Really anything you can do to stiffen the cab up will help. I think Wayne recommends kinda what a minimum amount of bracing and the locations in the directions?

I've never gotten around to veneering mine yet! LOL!!! I've had them sitting in the room for about a year or so and can't bring myself to tear them apart to do it! Mine are a little different though as I plan to put a solid oak top and base on them as well as a couple of 1 1/2" oak strips up the sides of the front stained in a red oak. Then veneer the actual front baffle, sides, and rear with maple in a natural color.

Here's a link to a previous post of mine showing the front so you can see what I mean.


 
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