| Re: Ready, Set, Shoot [message #41002 is a reply to message #40999] |
Tue, 15 April 2003 20:15   |
BillEpstein
Messages: 886
Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (2nd Degree) |
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I've read shorter Tom Clancy books.
Allow me to make this a bit longer.
"Work your way up to 220 grit in steps."
Veneer comes sanded to about 150, but with defects. Only hand sand with a cork backed wood block using 150 then 220 garnet paper. For a small project like a speaker power sanding isn't necessary. Don't give 3M $4 for that purple stuff. What makes Garnet good is that the abrasive particles break down and won't cause bigger grit scratches. Aluminum Oxide and whatever that purple stuff is will. Your random orbital sander has too soft a pad and will almost certainly create low spots and even sand thru the veneer.
If you do use a scraper, highly recommended, you still have to sand with 220 after. The scraper burnishes the wood which closes the pores.
"The better spray gun you can afford the less headache you will have"
Very true. But for a single project you might want to just go outdoors and spray with spray cans. 2 brands are available from the catalogs, Behlen and Varathane. The latter is by far better.
In any case, lay the work flat, never spray the vertical if you can help it. Spray north-south in even lines keeping the gun/can the same distance from the work. Don't make an arc. Spray within 6 to 8 inches. Go ahead and really wet the work. Then spray east west the same way. That is one coat.
Working outdoors is no problem. Lacquer dries to the touch within seconds and dust nibs will sand out from the later coats. Do watch out for the bugs that invariably have to find out what you're doing.
Sand with 400 paper
Steel wool using 0000 grade steel wool and use a wool oil
Wash off all excess wool oil with damp cloth a few times
Paste wax with Johnson's paste wax. Wipe off when hazy
Wet sand with 400 grit wet or dry, the black paper. Put 2 or 3 drops of dishwashing detergent in a coffee cup of water, dip your fingers and flick some drops on the surface and sand with a hard cork block.
Go easy. You just want to level the surface, not remove the lacquer you've carefully built up. Watch out for the edges, they never have as much build as the rest.
"Now you can sit back and admire your work. I'll talk more about touch ups and repairs another time. If you hanker for an Oil finish, you'll have to consult upon Dr. Epstein since he has some cool tricks for Tung oil, Danish oil, French polish and Shellacs."
Are you scared? Good. Now delete both these posts, get some Boiled Linseed oil or Tung Oil or Watco. Flood the surface, wait an hour, re-wet and wipe off the excess after 20 minutes. Next day another coat same way. Next day 220 grit and even the surface. Apply another lighter coat. Next day sand with 340 stearated (grey paper) and apply a thin coat. Next day 0000 steel wool very lightly with your fingers and wipe on a thin coat. Use Handi-Wipes to apply the oil. Use tack rags after the sanding.
After this coat Johnsons wax with rag for higher shine or applied with 0000 steel wool for satin finish.
5 Cabinetmakers, 6 opinions.
I play Tim to Bill's Al. If you've ever seen his work, you'll know why. Gorgeous.
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