Home » Sponsored » Pi Speakers » mdf cabinet assembly question
not sure about the other guys [message #36441 is a reply to message #36440] Thu, 16 May 2002 06:32 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
Sam P. is currently offline  Sam P.
Messages: 307
Registered: May 2009
Grand Master
but I usually glue the top/bottom/sides together first, forming a rectangular "skeleton". All cut outs and routing is done to the front baffle, which is attached next. Install your port tube(s). The rear wall is attached last, I used to make them removeable, but when you have a 14 inch "access hole" in front, nonremovable is easier to insure a gool seal. 1x2's are glued horizontally in several places to attach the fiberglass lining and space it away from the walls slightly.

If you only have a jig saw, once the rectangular frame is made, lay it on the plywood and trace out the exact dimensions of your front/rear panels, then cut as close, but OUTSIDE, the lines as possible, to avoid excess sanding. The 4 Pi Pro's I built in this manner were all plain glued butt joints, done with care. I think leaving out the screws joining the panel edges MIGHT reduce the chance of splitting later, since stress at the screw holes is avoided. For sure you save the time otherwise spent drilling/screwing and applying filler over the heads.

For a single project, the "drill/glue/screw method" will be cheaper than buying the 6 clamps or so I needed. Be sure to invest in the proper pilot hole drill for the screws you choose. Good Luck! Sam

 
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Previous Topic: good info site
Next Topic: Pi Speaker enclosure for Coaxial
Goto Forum:
  


Current Time: Wed Nov 27 10:56:21 CST 2024

Sponsoring Organizations

DIY Audio Projects
DIY Audio Projects
OddWatt Audio
OddWatt Audio
Pi Speakers
Pi Speakers
Prosound Shootout
Prosound Shootout
Miller Audio
Miller Audio
Tubes For Amps
TubesForAmps.com

Lone Star Audiofest