Wayne Parham Messages: 19048 Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)
It's easy to overlook polarity, especially on that model. The 2226H is positive black, as is the DE250. But not the Omega 15A or the PSD2002. It's almost like a trick or a practical joke.
I like to lay the cabinets on their backs to remove all the screws. Then use a plastic trim tool - like is commonly used by mechanics when removing dash or door trim - to pry up one side of the driver. That protects the wood. Sometimes you can use a bit of cloth underneath the tool to further protect the wood.
If you feel brave, leave the cabinet standing but tilted back 20 to 30 degrees. Remove all the screws but one in the bottom. Push the edge of the driver - holding it in position - while removing that last screw. Then slowly reduce pressure holding the driver in, allowing it to slide out.
Okay...Is it possible that the red on the DE250's is actually positive? I played with the polarities a bit and with the woofers black to + and tweeters red to +, the speakers sprang to life! I am in the room with Arne Domnerus right now!!
Wayne Parham Messages: 19048 Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)
I doubt it very seriously but you can easily verify with acoustic measurements. If the compression driver is wired backwards, there will be a big dip in the crossover region when measured on-axis. The vertical nulls won't be at +/-20 degrees either.
I'll work on getting a test mic. For now, my ears say the polarities are correct.
My ongoing goal with my hifi system is to get as close as possible to having live music in my home, and the 4pi's have the magic I was looking for. In fact this sound is better than a lot of venues I've been to.
One question, any ideas on how to decouple the speakers from the wood floor? The spot where I want to place them is not covered by the rug, but I have noticed the bass is much cleaner when they are standing on the rug.
Wayne Parham Messages: 19048 Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)
Some people like to use spikes. Their goal is to firmly "attach" the loudspeaker to the floor, using the weight of the cabinet to "nail" it to the floor by having such a small contact point. The idea is to make the cabinet as steady and immovable as possible.
Another approach goes exactly the opposite, isolating the speakers from the floor. Most use carpeting as you describe, or rubber feet. I prefer this method and always put rubber feet under my loudspeaker cabinets between them and any stands and place the stands on rubber mats or on carpets.
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