2Pi Tower Build [message #94173] |
Mon, 09 August 2021 08:39 ![Go to next message Go to next message](/forum/theme/AudioRoundTable/images/down.png) |
birkbott
Messages: 10 Registered: August 2021
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Chancellor |
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Hi all, I just ordered my Two Pi Tower kits and while I wait patiently for the backorder I have some questions:
Regarding lumber I know that 5/8" is called for but is there any audible benefit to going with 3/4"? I've only worked with 3/4" MDF before for bookshelf speakers but I'm worried it might make floorstanders needlessly heavy.
Is rounding the inside of the cutout for the woofer recommended? I'm planning to surface mount unless there's any benefit to flush mount.
For the build what do I need to buy that doesn't come with the kit? Speaker terminals I'm assuming? Are there recommended mounting screws for the drivers? Any other internal cabling or anything else? What about feet? Or should they sit on the floor?
For upgrades I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron are there good crossover upgrades? And is there an upgrade swap for the woofer? Any other tweaks that people have tried?
Thanks all in advance
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Re: 2Pi Tower Build [message #94175 is a reply to message #94173] |
Mon, 09 August 2021 11:11 ![Go to previous message Go to previous message](/forum/theme/AudioRoundTable/images/up.png) ![Go to next message Go to next message](/forum/theme/AudioRoundTable/images/down.png) |
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Wayne Parham
Messages: 18756 Registered: January 2001
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Illuminati (33rd Degree) |
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I'm sure others will chime in but I'll throw in my 2ยข:
MDF is heavy, but I have two Pi towers made of MDF and they aren't too bad. Either thickness is fine - no advantage or disadvantage either way - because the rigidity is created by the braces, not the panel thickness. Do be sure your port size is appropriate for the panel thickness though. Port diameter depends on panel thickness, as is shown in the notes on the plans.
Also be sure you install the insulation as described in the plans. It is very important. You want the insulation spanning the cross-section as well as on the cabinet sides.
The crossover components that come with the kit are very good. You get Solen polypropylene caps and Jantzen air-core coils. We supply the internal wiring too. I don't think any upgrades are necessary.
A terminal plate comes with the kits. It mounts using a 2-1/8" x 2-7/8" hole. On most loudspeaker models, we put it 3" up from the bottom. But on the towers, we put it higher on the cabinet, just below the midwoofer. They're good posts, but you can get Cardas binding posts instead, if you want.
I like to use black oxide #8 pan head wood screws for the one Pi and two Pi models. But on larger models, I like using button head 10-32 screws and T-Nuts or threaded inserts. You could do that, if you want.
Lastly, there's no difference in performance between surface-mounted drivers and flush-mounted drivers. It's purely aesthetics.
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