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Re: Pinging MQracing [message #9450 is a reply to message #9444] Wed, 21 December 2005 21:15 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Steve Eddy is currently offline  Steve Eddy
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Registered: May 2009
Chancellor


I really like the light/white look of the mounting panel behind the darker wood when looking through the holes on your prototype.

Actually that part IS plastic.

It's the Delrin shoulder washers used for isolating the connectors and their diameter is virtually the same as the diameter of the through holes that the connectors are protruding through.

I could have just mounted the RCAs without them but the diameter of the shoulder on the shoulder washer was 3/8" and the diameter of the threads on the RCA were some metric dimension so I just made it simple and drilled 3/8" holes.

se



Re: Pinging MQracing [message #9451 is a reply to message #9450] Wed, 21 December 2005 21:27 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Shane is currently offline  Shane
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Registered: May 2009
Illuminati (3rd Degree)
That's the part I was asking about. LOL!! Looks like teflon?

Anyway-- it looks like a great product so far.

I'm making one more headphone amp that runs at about 70V (little steps for me), then it's time to move up to the real stuff so I can see what all the chatter about MQ iron is all about.

Re: SE - Copper would be cool! [message #9452 is a reply to message #9449] Wed, 21 December 2005 21:33 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Steve Eddy is currently offline  Steve Eddy
Messages: 28
Registered: May 2009
Chancellor


I've never seen smooth seams when plastic welding. It's basically just a small diameter heat gun used to melt plastic rod that is fed into the seam.

Basically like a hot glue gun except you use hot plastic, yes?


SE --- Copper would be cool!

*grumble* *grumble* *grumble*

se



Re: Pinging MQracing [message #9453 is a reply to message #9451] Wed, 21 December 2005 22:35 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Steve Eddy is currently offline  Steve Eddy
Messages: 28
Registered: May 2009
Chancellor


That's the part I was asking about. LOL!! Looks like teflon?

Oh! Hehehe. Ok. I thought you might have been talking about a different photo that was of a walnut case without any top or bottom and you could see the edge of the maple piece.


Anyway-- it looks like a great product so far.

Thanks! Now just have to work on something to put INSIDE it.


I'm making one more headphone amp that runs at about 70V (little steps for me), then it's time to move up to the real stuff so I can see what all the chatter about MQ iron is all about.

You're a braver man than I. I'm a big pussy when it comes to high voltages. However now that Mike's starting to develop some line level trannies I'll be able to use some MQ iron in spite of that.

se



Re: SE - Copper would be cool! [message #9454 is a reply to message #9452] Thu, 22 December 2005 04:00 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Thermionic is currently offline  Thermionic
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Registered: May 2009
Master
I'm a tool and die maker with literally thousands of hours of experience in machining plastics, especially when working for a company that produced robotic poultry processing machinery.

As someone had noted, Teflon is very easy to machine when using a razor sharp end mill. Delrin is even easier to machine, and machines more accurately, but requires a bit more deburring in most cases. But unlike some plastics, both these plastics can be very easily deburred by lightly scraping the edge of a stainless steel 6" scale over the burr. PVC is brittle, and more difficult to deburr. There are many different Nylons available, but the common type 66 is easiest to work with.

The feasibility/possibility of laser cutting plastics was mentioned. What you'd want to use is abrasive water jet cutting, where a fine garnet oxide abrasive is fed through stream of water under tremendous pressure. It cuts plastic like a hot knife through butter, and leaves a very clean edge except for the entry/exit point.

For scratch resistant clear plastics, nothing beats Lexan polycarbonate. But unlike acrylic monomers (Plexiglas, Perspex, Acrylite, Lucite), any scratches cannot be polished out very easily at all. Scratches will come right out of Plexiglas with ease using Novus plastic polish, which is hands-down the best polish available.

I used to machine 12" long bevels on these 18" wide, 2" thick Plexiglas plates, that had to be scratch-free, crystal transparent across the entire 12" x 18" area when done. I used some progressively fine sanding discs on a hand sander to work out the flycutter marks and then the coarse sanding marks, then I went to some jeweler's rouge on a cotton buffing pad to get a dull shine. Finally, I went down to the coarse and fine Novus polish on cotton pads. It looked absolutely perfect when I was finished. They had used jeweler's rouge in progressively finer grades on the original prototype part, but it proved less than satisfactory. I recommended the Novus polishing system, and that made all the difference.

I'm also a welder, with 2 years of welding school, and some 24 welding certifications, but quit work as a welder years ago. Plastic welding was a subject in welding school. I was even offered a job welding plastic once at a company that made machines to deflux PC boards after soldering. Very few thermosetting plastics can even be welded successfully, and polypropylene and polyethylene are definitely the easiest, best candidates. The weld is performed using a heat gun and a filler rod, just like oxyacetylene or TIG welding, except there is no actual molten puddle. The plastic is just heated to a semifluid state a little below it's scorch point, and the rod laid in in a continuous bead.

Thermionic

Re: SE - Copper would be cool! [message #9455 is a reply to message #9454] Thu, 22 December 2005 04:14 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Thermionic is currently offline  Thermionic
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Registered: May 2009
Master
Oh yeah! BTW Mike, water jet cutting works very well with glass (not tempered glass, though). AAMOF, it works on most anything! Here's a link to the local water jet/laser cutting shop's website (I use them to do my all custom amp chassis), so you can see some samples of what it's capable of.

The huge gear with the four holes cut in it (on the waterjet cutting page) was done for the tool and die shop I used to work for. The gear was actually a scrap piece that we had; the four round plates were our actual parts to do the job. The gear just happened to be the right thickness of material.

Thermionic


wow... great post.. thank-you. <> [message #9456 is a reply to message #9454] Thu, 22 December 2005 11:54 Go to previous messageGo to next message
MQracing is currently offline  MQracing
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Registered: May 2009
Master
yellzee.

Re: SE - Copper would be cool! [message #9457 is a reply to message #9455] Thu, 22 December 2005 11:56 Go to previous messageGo to next message
MQracing is currently offline  MQracing
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Registered: May 2009
Master
Thanks for the leads. I had not even thought of water jet cutting. Later SE should be posting some pics of some neat glass...

msl

Glass samples [message #9458 is a reply to message #9447] Thu, 22 December 2005 22:34 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Steve Eddy is currently offline  Steve Eddy
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Registered: May 2009
Chancellor

I ask SE to put up some pics of the glass samples...

Here ya go.

se

Re: Glass samples [message #9459 is a reply to message #9458] Thu, 22 December 2005 23:29 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
Shane is currently offline  Shane
Messages: 1117
Registered: May 2009
Illuminati (3rd Degree)
Cool. This is for the top plate? I like the smoked glass the best I think, but they are all pretty neat.

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