Roger S. Messages: 15 Registered: September 2021 Location: Norway
Chancellor
Started planning and buying parts a year ago, and now it is time to create them. I have spent some time with Sketchup to try different designs. They are made of 21mm plywood with double baffle and additional bracing. Finishing will be bare plywood with Osmo black wax. Internal measures, port dimensions and positioning of drivers are according to original spec. DE250 and JBL2226 drivers will be used. I am showing you pictures from sketchup in this first post. More pictures from the build process will be shared tomorow.
Roger S. Messages: 15 Registered: September 2021 Location: Norway
Chancellor
Promised some updates, and here it comes. Decided to finish the stands first. The bottom is made of two layers 21mm birch plywood, and the top is single plate. Top plate is tilted 3 degrees. I used two sheets plywood and it was just enough for speakers and stands.
Roger S. Messages: 15 Registered: September 2021 Location: Norway
Chancellor
Building the cabinet.
I wanted flushmonted driver/horn, so I used the router on the outer baffle first. Then I cut out the holes, glued the outer front to the inner and used a copy bit to to make the same cutout on the inner front.
There was a guide bushing accessory my handheld router, so I made a template for the horn flushmounting. I think I made four versions before I was happy with the fit. The horns were slightly different in size (approximately 1 mm), so I ran them through my router table to make them 100% alike.
Parts start to come together. I twisted my mind to find a decent way to make the port opening in the baffles flush with the port construction itself. I ended up cutting out a slightly smaller port opening in the baffle, glued the port to the baffle and ran the whole construction face down on my router table with a long copying bit to follow the sides of the inner port. Port opening was finished with a roundover bit to follow the "rounded" design of the speaker and to appear as large as the horn.
I used masking tape to avoid glue spill. Experience from earlier mistakes taught me that oil or wax dont dont absorbe on those spots. You may have to sand really deep to fix it.
First sanding of top after side panel assembly. A good start. Side panels were rounded off with a roundover bit with same radius as the plywood thickness. Had to practice on several pieces to find the right router/feeding speed. It is damn easy to get burnmarks. This was done on my routertable to ensure stable feeding and guiding.
Roger S. Messages: 15 Registered: September 2021 Location: Norway
Chancellor
This is how I applied damping material. I covered all sided with classic felt damping. This layer is just 7mm thick but has good effect.
Behind the woofer below the top brace there are two layers more. One sheet with the white stuff which is very airy, and classic foam type on top. So three layers in total behind woofer. Had this laying around from earlier projects, but I believe they will give a good combined effect.
Added some extra damping on one side as per Waynes description. A sheet with fiberglass will be added under the top brace as recommended.
Roger S. Messages: 15 Registered: September 2021 Location: Norway
Chancellor
Horn mounting. Tight fit, and flush. Made two extra holes on the sides of the horn just to be sure. The horn itself is damped too.
Filter install. Just enough place for the filter. Speakon 4 pole installed on bottom. I modified the filter for bi-amping to have the option. With four wires in it is also possible to test active crossover and dsp if/when I get the urge.
2 inches fiberglass insulation mounted under top brace.
Speakers had to be bolted to the stands before filter/woofer install. Four bolts with rubber gasket between stand and speaker.