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2226H suspension stiffness [message #78561]

Fri, 06 December 2013 16:33

Scholl
Messages: 67
Registered: May 2009

Viscount

Hi guys,

I just got a pair of used 2226H woofers in and find the suspension tighter then I remember. I know the Vas is on the low side but is the suspension stiffer?

Thanks,

Scott

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Re: 2226H suspension stiffness [message #78562 is a reply to message #78561]

Fri, 06 December 2013 19:05

Wayne Parham
Messages: 18787
Registered: January 2001

Illuminati (33rd Degree)

Oh, yeah. The suspension on the 2226 is definitely stiff. The mechanical assembly and the cone are really well damped too, though.

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Re: 2226H suspension stiffness [message #78572 is a reply to message #78562]

Sat, 07 December 2013 07:13

Scholl
Messages: 67
Registered: May 2009

Viscount

Do you know how to tell a recone from original? Is the white serial\part number and black dustcap glue an original?

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Re: 2226H suspension stiffness [message #78573 is a reply to message #78572]

Sat, 07 December 2013 08:50

Wayne Parham
Messages: 18787
Registered: January 2001

Illuminati (33rd Degree)

Sormetimes you can obviously tell an aftermarket recone kit. But many of them are indistinguishable from OEM parts without making acoustic measurements. But that's the rub - If they measured well, I'd be OK with them but they measure anywhere from bad to horrible. So if you have the capability to do acoustic measurements, see what the response curve looks like. Be sure to do it in high resolution though - Some measurement systems don't show in much detail and breakup doesn't show, it's averaged out.

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Re: 2226H suspension stiffness [message #78737 is a reply to message #78572]

Sun, 22 December 2013 08:32

thatsnasty
Messages: 12
Registered: June 2012
Location: Niagara Falls

Chancellor

Scholl wrote on Sat, 07 December 2013 07:13

Do you know how to tell a recone from original? Is the white serial\part number and black dustcap glue an original?

Like Wayne said, the easiest way is measurements (comparing a known legit cone to a recone under the same conditions), but from what I've seen, here's a few tips, if you still need em..

Color: Cones should be grey on top, and have "bumps" on the backside, as well as an orange-ish ring around the edges of the back of the cone

Tinsel leads: Where the wires are punched through the cone by the dustcap on the front, both holes should be punched symmetrical to eachother, and have a bit of distance between the dustcap. This means they shouldn't be too close / touching the dustcap.

Markings : As far as I can tell, all my original cones have almost no markings on them. They are basically entirely grey, with bumps on them. The only markings I see are on the frames, and they are stamped.

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