Home » Audio » Silicon Valley » active speakers
active speakers [message #7736] Sun, 03 October 2004 00:39 Go to next message
micmac is currently offline  micmac
Messages: 1
Registered: May 2009
Esquire
Just a general question:
Would it be better to put amps ina stand-alone box, and have long speaker wire runs and short RCA runs from x-over to amp, or put the amp in the speaker enclosure and have long RCA runs?

Thanks
Mike

Re: active speakers [message #7737 is a reply to message #7736] Sun, 03 October 2004 02:48 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne Parham is currently offline  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18783
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)
Hi Mike,

There are two things to consider here. Low-impedance, high-power lines suffer more from power loss through long lines. High-impedance, low-power lines are more vulnerable to noise when they are made long. So those are the vulnerabilities you'll have when either is made longer.

Fortunately, with the distances involved in home audio systems, neither is usually a problem. You can find an easy solution either way you do it. If you make the speaker wires long, make sure they are large. And if you make the preamp level lines long, make sure they are shielded and not run near electrically noisy devices like florescent lamps and large appliances with high current switching relays or commutated electric motors.

Wayne

Re: active speakers [message #7744 is a reply to message #7737] Sun, 31 October 2004 11:17 Go to previous message
halojoy is currently offline  halojoy
Messages: 2
Registered: May 2009
Esquire
I agree with Wayne, about drawbacks for lsp-cables vs. signal-cables.
Also true that problems very small when we talk about only 2-3 meters of lenght.
Most active speakers amplifiers are put close to or within lspeakers.
Like in subwoofers.

I am thinking of building an active sytem now.
With three-way speakers. And 3+3 chip-amplifiers.
Right now my idea is to fit all active filters and those six amplifier-ICs onto heatsinks IN ONE COMMON ALUMINIUM BOX.
And to have loudspeaker cables for those 2-3 meters going to lspeakers.
Cables will be standard low price LSP-cables at least 2x6 mm2 area.

The benefit from this will be I can have six volume-potentiometers.
One for each amplifier - lsp-driver (element).
(I will also have one master dual volume knob).
And I have all controls in same box, at my listening position.

When you put all controls in same box as active filter
and use six longer signal cables to amps near to LSP,
you will need VERY good sheilding!
This is because when you turn down volume, a very weak signal will be passed through the signal cables, those 2-3 meters.
And the smaller (maybe below 0.1 Volt RMS) the signal, the less distance to the NOISE-floor will be.
How strong the signal is compared to noise
is expressed as SIGNAL to NOISE ratio, counted in decibel.
for example: S/N 60 dB
The signal is 60 dB stronger than noise.
Turning down signal will give less S/N.

So if we have a long signal cable, we would want the signal to be strong for the lenght of the signal cable.
Preferable 1-2 volt RMS = the full output of a CD-player.

The volume control should then be put very close to power-amps input pins.
As I said, my choice was having all volume controls + Amp-chips in same box
and to have long lsp-cables instead.
Only in the low-impedance thick lsp-cables will the signal be very weak.

/halojoy

Previous Topic: Rod Elliotts pre-amp
Next Topic: Solid State Pre-amp
Goto Forum:
  


Current Time: Fri Nov 08 20:21:21 CST 2024

Sponsoring Organizations

DIY Audio Projects
DIY Audio Projects
OddWatt Audio
OddWatt Audio
Pi Speakers
Pi Speakers
Prosound Shootout
Prosound Shootout
Miller Audio
Miller Audio
Tubes For Amps
TubesForAmps.com

Lone Star Audiofest