Home » Sponsored » Pi Speakers » 4 Pi Screws
4 Pi Screws [message #73996] Mon, 01 October 2012 11:20 Go to next message
mantha3 is currently offline  mantha3
Messages: 72
Registered: May 2012
Location: Lino Lakes, MN
Viscount
Hi

What size screws are people using for the 4PI

For the 2226 it looks like I see #10 size with a locking T Nut on the back

For the Emmenance H290 are people using a #8 size T Nut?

Thanks for the help on this journey all!
Re: 4 Pi Screws [message #73997 is a reply to message #73996] Mon, 01 October 2012 12:54 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne Parham is currently offline  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18786
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)

I like using T-nuts for the larger drivers, 10-32 size button head or hex head screws. Wood screws are fine for dome tweeters and small cone speakers, but I do like something a bit more substantial for horns and larger prosound drivers. Some people prefer threaded inserts - and those are great too - but I've worked through all the problems you commonly run into with T-nuts so I'm good with them. The trick is to get good T-nuts (like from Midwest Fastener) and pull them into the wood before assembly.

Don't beat them in with a hammer, and don't pull them in place when you're putting the speaker together. Use a washer and a sacrificial screw (or three) to gradually pull the T-Nut in by tightening it down. Only use the screw to pull-in three or four T-nuts, then discard it and get a new one. I also recommend a drop of PL adhesive on each T-Nut to hold it firmly in place.

Don't skimp on this step. You are planning for the T-Nuts to last the life of the cabinet, and to provide you with trouble-free, serviceable access. If you install them as I've described, they'll be that for you. But if you don't, they can be a real pain.

Every time I hear of someone complaining about T-Nuts, it's because they've failed from one of these causes:

1. Tapped the T-Nuts in with a hammer - The tangs bent, and the T-Nut is loose, held only by the screw clamping force. So when you loosen the screw, the T-Nut spins. Makes it really hard to get the speaker out for service.
2. Didn't put a spot of epoxy on the T-Nut - Even if the tangs go in straight, a few knocks on the head of a partially loosened screw can make the T-Nuts come loose. They hold pretty well, but it's easy insurance to add a dab of PL adhesive during assembly. Just a dab though, don't get any on the threads.
3. Pulled the T-Nuts in with a screw, as described, but used the same screw over and over again, damaging the T-Nut threads - Sacrifice the screw, only use it to set two or three T-Nuts. You don't want them to have damaged threads, 'cause once they're installed, they're permanent.

Put 'em in right, and they'll last a lifetime, giving you trouble-free serviceable access. But put 'em in wrong, and you'll be frustrated to no end when it's time for a woofer to come out.

Re: 4 Pi Screws [message #74001 is a reply to message #73996] Mon, 01 October 2012 17:19 Go to previous message
mantha3 is currently offline  mantha3
Messages: 72
Registered: May 2012
Location: Lino Lakes, MN
Viscount
Wayne,

That all makes sense and I'll work to your advice. Thank you for the details on how to avoid issues down the road. Experience!

Thanks man

PS - I'll be posting some on this build here to share

Thanks,
Andy
Previous Topic: Dust cap dented on 2226H
Next Topic: Pi Speakers for dubbing studio
Goto Forum:
  


Current Time: Wed Nov 27 02:16:58 CST 2024

Sponsoring Organizations

DIY Audio Projects
DIY Audio Projects
OddWatt Audio
OddWatt Audio
Pi Speakers
Pi Speakers
Prosound Shootout
Prosound Shootout
Miller Audio
Miller Audio
Tubes For Amps
TubesForAmps.com

Lone Star Audiofest