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| Re: skywave's 3Pi subwoofer build [message #71655 is a reply to message #71649] |
Sun, 04 March 2012 07:59   |
skywave-rider
Messages: 104
Registered: May 2009
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Viscount |
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| Wayne Parham wrote on Sat, 03 March 2012 21:21 |
You can take the gasket off if you want, but if you do, be sure to scrape it off completely and clean the surface, like you would do on an engine rebuild. Start with a completely smooth and clean surface for the new gasket. Otherwise, you may not have a good seal.
I guess I don't see the benefit in doing this. If you are concerned with the height from the baffle, wouldn't it be better to route a recess for the woofer to sit in?
About the mounting holes, and the portion of the surround that partially covers them, simply foke through that. It's just an artifact of assembly. You can cut it with a razor, if you want. But you can just poke the mounting screw into the hole too. There's no harm if that bit of material bends or tears.
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Wayne,
Actually, the woofer arrived with no gasket at all on the bottom part of the flange. The top has a neoprene (maybe) gasket which is possibly be glued on. I don't want to mess with it. A thick paper or fiber gasket was taped to the top of that, for use on the bottom. So I have a clean surface on the bottom flange.
As far as the recess goes, I would love to do that but it will require a thicker baffle and more cost. The protection and aesthetic the recess offers is something to consider, though.
Thanks for the tips on the mounting holes. I managed to accidentally remove the surround on a PE woofer once with mounting screws, but that's a different animal I'm sure.
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| Re: skywave's 3Pi subwoofer build [message #74607 is a reply to message #74605] |
Mon, 26 November 2012 22:00 |
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Wayne Parham
Messages: 18786
Registered: January 2001
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Illuminati (33rd Degree) |
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You're right that Gorilla glue and PL adhesive expand as they cure. But if you just put on a drop, just a smear of film, that kind of adhesive works great. That's all we want, really, just a dab. It adds extra hold and prevents the T-Nuts from backing out. But yeah, whether epoxy or PL adhesive, you have to be careful not to get it on the threads or anywhere else you don't want it.
Using a C-Clamp is basically the same approach I usually recommend, which is to pull T-Nuts in with a screw and washer rather than tapping them in with a hammer. I think the C-Clamp method is a fine way to do it too. The main thing is to apply a slow, even and straight pressure rather than with sharp impacts from a hammer, which tend to bend the tongs rather than driving them in.
My experience with high-power hornsubs is what drove me towards these methods. Prosound subs beat the hell out of stuff, and you would be suprised what that much vibration can do.
Most people won't punish their subs the way prosound hornsubs are, and many won't ever need to remove a woofer. So for them, this is probably overkill. But there's nothing worse than a spun T-Nut when you're trying to remove a driver, so I think it's worthwhile to do anyway.
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