Home » Sponsored » Pi Speakers » New HT - Need Advice on Speakers - 4pis or 7pis for main, 2pis, and what to use for bass
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Re: New HT - Need Advice on Speakers - 4pis or 7pis for main, 2pis, and what to use for bass [message #69336 is a reply to message #69334] |
Sun, 04 September 2011 02:26 ![Go to previous message Go to previous message](/forum/theme/AudioRoundTable/images/up.png) ![Go to next message Go to next message](/forum/theme/AudioRoundTable/images/down.png) |
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Wayne Parham
Messages: 18753 Registered: January 2001
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Illuminati (33rd Degree) |
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coolgeek wrote on Sun, 04 September 2011 01:45 | What's a ts program? can you send me the link to buy it?
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It's a Thiele/Small modeling program. Lots of freeware/shareware programs available that can be used to calculate subwoofer box/port combinations for any given driver.
coolgeek wrote on Sun, 04 September 2011 01:45 | This brings me a couple more questions regarding the subs.. I was looking at your 3pi sub kit... does it include the 400watt amp?
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No, you have to purchase the amp seperately. It can either be a plate amp or a stand-alone amp, whichever you prefer.
coolgeek wrote on Sun, 04 September 2011 01:45 | how do i hook up a 4pi with a 3pi sub together? Should the out from my receiver go into the 4pi which then has an out to the subs? If I am not mistaken, the receivers have ONE out for each main channel only. This is the confusing part.. i know how to hook up powered subs.. ie, thru the receivers' sub-output.. but not passive subs, especially as per your recommendation of hooking it up with the 4pis..
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There are a lot of right ways and a lot of wrong ways. Briefly, the distant subs can be run from the receiver's subwoofer output. Just be sure that the crossover frequency is 60Hz or below. If running a plate amp, the crossover frequency is usually variable. Flanking subs should be driven with the same L/R channel as the main speaker they are next to, but with a low-pass filter, usualy set for 80Hz to 120Hz, second-order is best. This will be done by a separate crossover. They aren't too expensive or difficult to use. See the following thread for a couple suggestions:
coolgeek wrote on Sun, 04 September 2011 01:45 | I was adding stuff to my cart then relize that upgrading the capacitor - Audience AuriCaps costs over $200, which is very significant. Should i add this, in your opinion or just the cheaper upgrade of $50? Does it make a lot of difference?
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See the link below.
coolgeek wrote on Sun, 04 September 2011 01:45 | Final question on the 4pi build, i notice that apart from the square port, the other parts of the speakers looks great.. the sauare hole is just ugly.. could i replace that square hole with a commercial flare port?
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No, it doesn't have enough area and a round vent with enough area won't fit.
I personally think the rectangular port looks great. It's one of the coolest aesthetic things about that speaker, in my opinion.
coolgeek wrote on Sun, 04 September 2011 01:55 | BTW: I followed your suggestion in calculating the shipping, but there was an error in your shopping cart:
"An error occured with the UPS shipping calculations.
The maximum per package weight for the selected service from the selected country is 150 pounds."
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That's the message returned from UPS when the shopping cart sent details about what you wanted to ship. You might try checking items one at a time. Put one kit in the cart and see how much it calculates the shipping charges would be.
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Re: New HT - Need Advice on Speakers - 4pis or 7pis for main, 2pis, and what to use for bass [message #69415 is a reply to message #69336] |
Fri, 09 September 2011 09:48 ![Go to previous message Go to previous message](/forum/theme/AudioRoundTable/images/up.png) ![Go to next message Go to next message](/forum/theme/AudioRoundTable/images/down.png) |
coolgeek
Messages: 8 Registered: September 2011
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Esquire |
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Hi Wayne,
I just heard from PennGray at avsforum that you thought the 3pi is better than the 4pi when used with the right drivers...
Your quote: | Build as shown, and you have a world-class, price-no-object loudspeaker. The three Pi with TD12S and DE250/H290 is the best "waveguide" speaker I've ever heard or measured. No warts, smooth, perfect pattern and excellent response. Sorry, that's kind of bragging, I know. But this one sets the standard. It's that good.
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So, just to confirm, is it truly better than the 4pi with the above configuration? If so, i may as well build the 3pi instead as it's smaller and nicer looking! And if it sounds better, then it's a no brainer!!!!
btw: I am still trying to source for stuff here.. it's proofing futile.. even the JBL distributor don't have the 2226h in stock and they had to ship it in if i wanted it and it'll still cost a lot for shipping..
In the end, I am thinking of finalizing all the speaker kits i want and just have you ship it all to me (i'll of course pay for the shipping in advance and add a little for you trouble)...
Meanwhile, i'll try to hunt around singapore and maybe Hong Kong...
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three π verses four π [message #69418 is a reply to message #69415] |
Fri, 09 September 2011 10:23 ![Go to previous message Go to previous message](/forum/theme/AudioRoundTable/images/up.png) |
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Wayne Parham
Messages: 18753 Registered: January 2001
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Illuminati (33rd Degree) |
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I tend to try and refrain from giving my subjective opinions on the comparisons between the JBL 2226 used in the four π speaker and the AE TD12S used in the three π speaker. I just think too highly of both models. I don't hesitate to point out the benefits of midwoofers that have shorting rings, which is why I suggest the upgraded drivers over the stock ones. But once you get into the upgraded drivers, you're into the realm of what I consider to be the best speakers you can build or buy. It just doesn't get any better than that, both models are superb.
I sometimes make the comparison to cars. Which would you prefer, a Ferrari F40 or Porsche 959? Both are world class cars, both exceed 200MPH. It is like this with the fully upgraded three π or four π speakers too.
The four π is 3dB louder at the same input power, and is slightly smaller. Other than that, the differences are mostly below 100Hz, where multisubs should be employed. And once the subs are in place, it almost doesn't matter what the mains are doing. But below 100Hz, the 2226 shifts a little bit as power is increased. At very low power levels, it has slightly reduced bass. Again, when flanking subs are used, this just doesn't matter.
Above 100Hz, the two speakers are virtually identical in sound character and quality. Their directivity patterns are similar, their spectral balance is similar, in all respects, they are very much the same.
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