dutchswan0311 Messages: 102 Registered: June 2011 Location: Iowa
Viscount
I will be using T-nuts. On my first F20 build, I accidently stripped one of my T-nuts when installing the driver. If you know anything about that cabinet you know that there is NO space for hammering a T-nut after it is built. After removing the driver to replace the damaged T-nut, I found that vice grips worked at replacing the T-nut very well. As a matter of fact, it worked better than hammering it in since you can apply even pressure to seat it properly, as opposed to trying to hammer the edge of a baffle cut-out.
I am not certain how the front panel being installed is going to hinder the installation of the insulation? I used a jig saw to cut my circles. Can you post a picture of the router you are talking about?
Wayne Parham Messages: 18789 Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)
dutchswan0311 wrote on Fri, 22 July 2011 08:10
It is my intent to recess the 1pi speakers 5 1/2 inches into the wall between 2x6 studs. As a result, someone on a different forum suggested that I ask you the following question:
"Does the 1pi have baffle step compensation? Up against the wall might give it a rising bottom. You should ask him if the crossover needs tweaking for in-wall duty."
The quick answer is the speaker was designed to be used in locations where it will be radiating into half-space to quarter-space, so wall mounting or placement near the wall is preferred.
The long answer goes into a little more detail, but if you're interested, see these three links:
dutchswan0311 Messages: 102 Registered: June 2011 Location: Iowa
Viscount
Would it really make a difference being mounted on the wall, or being mounted 6" into the wall?
At the end of the day, do you recommend against installing it into the wall with the front 2" of the cabinet sticking out? I just thought this would be a very non-intrusive look with very nice sound.
As for my DIY circle jig.
All I did was remove the base plate from my dads plunge router. I then got a piece of 1/4" plexi the width of the base plate and about 15"long. You then mark the holes for the base plate onto the plexi and drill and countersink them so they dont scratch the surface of your project. You then take your bit that you will be using to cut the circles with and install it in the router. Attach the base plate. Then on a scrap piece of material cut though your new baseplate.
You now have a circle jig.
So say you need to cut an 8" hole. You take your tape measure and mark a spot 4" from the outside edge of the hole the bit cut through the plexi. Drill an 1/8" hole through the plexi at that point.
Go to your project mark your center and drill an 1/8 hole.
Leave the bit in the hole you drill and get your router. Put it in the 1/8 hole you drilled in the plate and your on your way. Its really easy.
dutchswan0311 Messages: 102 Registered: June 2011 Location: Iowa
Viscount
The first of twelve 1pi speaker enclosures is finished. It did take a lot of sanding, but it turned out well. FedEx shows my terminals and port tubes will arrive tomorrow.
dutchswan0311 Messages: 102 Registered: June 2011 Location: Iowa
Viscount
I tried staining my first 1pi (red mahogany) after some extensive standing with very fine sandpaper. Parts of it looked good, parts looked "splotchy" as a result of inconsistent standing. I see why most people veneer them. I don't have that kind of time on my hands to do this with twelve 1pis; especially if only 2" of it will be seen. I instead painted it black with the concrete epoxy. It is not elegant, but it looks professional and does not look homemade.
I am thinking about making two 4pis for live music on the stage. These I will make last, as I will have had a lot of practice making speaker cabinets by then. These two 4pis I will take extra care in making, and will veneer them as well as do whatever else I can to make them look more like an expensive piece of furniture than a high efficiency speaker.
I see a "modified 4pi" speaker build thread out there. I like the look of the taller speaker with the two round ports at the bottom. Are there any disadvantages of this configuration when compared to the original design?
Wayne Parham Messages: 18789 Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)
I would suggest building the four π speaker as designed. It is a tested and mature loudspeaker system.
The four π speaker is the result of hundreds of hours of R&D time, and to modify it basically throws all that design and testing out the window. It's not that the larger cabinet would not work - it would - but unless you have test equipment and a lot of time to make measurements, it might end up with ripple from standing waves and turn out to not work as well. So if it were me, I would go with the stock design.
I also suggest that you use multisubs. That's the best approach because it provides the deep bass extension as well as smoothing room modes. When using subs, a larger four π speaker doesn't give you anything. You don't need the extra extension.
So my advice is leave the four π build stock and employ multisubs.
dutchswan0311 Messages: 102 Registered: June 2011 Location: Iowa
Viscount
Wayne...
As of right now, our plans to create a cinema experience in our.dinner theater call for the use of the following:
LCR - 4pi speakers with all of the upgrades x3
L/R Surrounds - 1pi speakers x8
L/R Rear Surrounds - 1pi speakers x 4 (2 in balcony, 2 under balcony)
Subs - F20 horned subs x4 (lilmike's design, but using the 15" Reference HF driver instead of the MFW-15)
As a sound expert, do you see any issues with this setup? Do my.subs not.qualify as "multi-subs, as you put it?
With regards to the two 4pi speakers that will serve stage duty, I will use the unmodified version with all the upgrades. I see most use the 4pi for home theater use. Do you have a better suggestion for live music, or will these perform that function nicely?
As always, thank you for your feedback. I am always in a constant state of learning.
Posting Rules
Members
Search
Help
Register
Login
Get a T-Shirt!
