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Re: So how does this all work then..? [message #67652 is a reply to message #67506]

Mon, 16 May 2011 11:22

spacejazz
Messages: 6
Registered: May 2011
Location: Australia

Esquire

Hi Paul,

That's certainly good advice and I appreciate it. My only reservation has been with the mids, how good they sound using pro drivers - particulalrly a cheap(ish) Eminence. I'm used to Vifa, Scanspeak and over the past couple of years, smaller ~4" FR's with augmented woofers. All of the above lost out on that 'being there' sensation. I'm attributing much of this to dynamics - hence I landed here.

I will be keeping my eye's out on ebay for some JBL's as I read a quote where the TD12S were ~$300 in shipping alone Sad

Hi Wayne,

Please excuse the abrupt ending of our discussion. My internet connection exploded, or imploded, or something... and took some days to get back on! Your crossovers are still on the cards but I'd already committed to the B&C DE250's from Pro Sound in MA.

If I purchased the xo's the same week my private parts would have been on the black market Very Happy

(I'm using a smiley because they are NOT on the black market!)

Thank you for the plans. I have made cutting lists already with conversions. Is there an ideal height for the waveguide to be at in relation to the ear, eg: stand height? Also, what waveguide is it exactly?

I should clarify as I made an error in describing the birch ply I have. It is in fact void free B/BB ply, so a good face, an ok but not as good face and A graded core. Supposed to be good stuff. It's sad. I'm a furniture maker but have little idea about ply! Solid timbers however Wink

If MDF is preferred however, that's too easy and the ply can be used for a bookcase for the missus!

Thank you so much for all your help and generosity Smile

Cheers

Ken.

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Re: So how does this all work then..? [message #67657 is a reply to message #67652]

Mon, 16 May 2011 14:15

Wayne Parham
Messages: 18787
Registered: January 2001

Illuminati (33rd Degree)

I think as long as you have baltic birch, your speakers will sound fine. They'll be lighter and more durable than MDF cabinets too.

I like to put four π speakers on 14" stands with 7° tilt back (pointed slightly upward 7°). The three π stand is a little shorter and tilted back a little less: 12" and 5°. Stands made this way will put the forward lobe right where you want it to be.

Don't put the speakers on stands unless you're running flanking subs. If you don't plan to use subs, put the speakers on angled risers, on the ground with the front about 3" and the back about 1". This will tilt them back and will avoid boundary self-interference. Push the speakers all the wall back to the wall behind them too.

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Re: So how does this all work then..? [message #67930 is a reply to message #67506]

Mon, 30 May 2011 07:58

spacejazz
Messages: 6
Registered: May 2011
Location: Australia

Esquire

Hi Wayne,

I'm still here... and still waiting to receive an invoice from the chap at Pro Sound Service in the states Sad

I don't suppose you'd sell me a pair of the DE250 comp drivers Wink

I'm going to try and give the cabinets a little bit of Tannoy Prestige line character. I haven't decided which speaker yet, but if I choose one that I think may have an adverse affect I will ask you before planning. Bare in mind this is purely an aesthetic and internal dimensions will remain the same, as will driver location. I cannot see a reason for external dimensions to alter either, aside from 4mm in H/W/D due to the 16mm material.

Cheers

Ken.

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