BigmouthinDC Messages: 41 Registered: February 2010 Location: No VA
Baron
Nichol1997 wrote on Sat, 21 August 2010 18:25
The recessed portion for the horns look perfect. Did you take the time to make a template for the router?
Thanks Nick, I know I talked about it but I tried cutting the cutout for the horn with a jig saw and I had pretty good luck. If I was setting up to crank out the cabinets on a volume basis I would have a template for sure.
So here is what I did. I started with a two piece front baffle. 3/4 and 1/2.
I cut the horn and port cuts with a jig saw with the two pieces separate. I cleaned up the cuts with a file and sandpaper. I also used two different blades one blade that had a much longer profile and a blade intended for tight radius cuts for just the horn corners on the 1/2. I first cut the two top cut-outs in the 1/2 then I screwed the two pieces together from the back. I then marked where the holes were on the 3/4 and drilled the 1/8 center pivot hole for the woofer through both layers.
I took the two layers apart and finished all the holes with the jig and router. Then I put the two layers back together using green glue between the layers. I used the previous screw holes to align the two layers.
The one last step was to take a little more out of the woofer recess and I used a dado guided clean-out bit to make quick work of that. (Woodline)
I made the outer 1/2 inch layer over-sized 1/8 inch all around so that I had some margin for error and after assembly I trimmed it off with a flush cut bit (Just like you showed me!)
The one thing I would do differently would be to intentionally undercut the port hole in the outer 1/2 baffle and then finish it off once the port was glued in behind it. That would make the area where they are joined a little cleaner and you could work a little faster if you just need a rough cut.
Ordering the Crossover parts from PE was a bit of a challenge.
The superior cap was on back-order and I took the last 8 (of the 9 I needed) of another. They also ommitted slipping the dummy load resister in the box. So it took a 20 minute phone call and I should have everything I need when I get home next week. I am using your design for the hook-ups.
BigmouthinDC Messages: 41 Registered: February 2010 Location: No VA
Baron
They're BLACK.
Used two coats of Duratex with some light sanding with 400 grit after coats. Used a foam cigar roller intended for smooth finish. The result is a subtle texture. Just what I wanted. Now on to the crossovers.
BigmouthinDC Messages: 41 Registered: February 2010 Location: No VA
Baron
Thanks, Stage?
It is the bar at the back of my theater space. I'm still working on some concepts for the back-splash design. I get a lot of feed back on the lettering. They are basically metal laminate faced 1 inch thick gator foam letters. Most commercial sign shops can get them. I have some LED strips mounted behind some molding on the ceiling that light up the letters.
Wayne Parham Messages: 18786 Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)
Oh, I see now, that's a bar at the back. Now I visualize what your theater room layout looks like. I just was picturing your room wrong and thought we were looking at the screen area in the photo from a few posts back. I remember now, the screen area was shown in your first post, shown again below.
Really diggin' your theater room. Looks great, really great. It's getting ready to sound great too.
BigmouthinDC Messages: 41 Registered: February 2010 Location: No VA
Baron
So I wired up the three crossovers, used some scrap flooring and split the High and Low sections. Not pretty, I hope they work. Tested them all with the drivers attached and they measured 5.8 ohms.
One little detail, those bright shiny edges on the JBL speakers weren't going to cut it behind the screen. So I masked them and painted them. Cut some strips from a file folder and inserted in the slot that existed between the felt gasket and the metal rim. Taped the sides and laid paper towels on the cone.
Gave it a shot of Krylon ultra flat black.
here is a comparison before and after
Hopefully my next post will be the finished speakers.
Wayne Parham Messages: 18786 Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)
Yeah, I was wondering what you were going to do about those shiny edges. I expected you would want to paint them.
A word of warning, if you really put the power to these, the resistors in the tweeter circuit can get pretty warm to the touch. I saw that you used what appears to be an adhesive. It's probably OK, and even if it got hot enough to melt the adhesive, that probably wouldn't do anything bad. But I did want to put a bug in your ear about it. I've had the resistors melt plastic nearby when used at high power levels for extended periods of time. It will burn right through a wire tie, for example.
BigmouthinDC Messages: 41 Registered: February 2010 Location: No VA
Baron
Thanks for the tip on the resisters. When I install the crossovers I'll make sure that if they come loose that nothing bad can come from it. I was planning to mount them on the bottom, so gravity will pretty much not be a factor. Will it be a problem to put the insulation in contact with the resistors?
Wayne Parham Messages: 18786 Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)
No, I haven't had any trouble with fiberglass insulation. I've layed it right on the resistors for years without having any problems. I've never tried to burn the stuff to see how it acts but it is made of recycled glass and sand so I wouldn't expect it to burn.
Posting Rules
Members
Search
Help
Register
Login
Get a T-Shirt!
