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Re: second array already in the works [message #60748 is a reply to message #60744] |
Wed, 02 September 2009 07:48 |
Marlboro
Messages: 403 Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (1st Degree) |
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I chose to put each mid in its own separate enclose to eliminate any interaction in the back wash of sound. Additionally I didn't want any sound coming back through the front of the speaker to muddy the midrange, thus the 22.5 inch SEALED tubes stuffed with fiberglass TO A 4 lb/cu foot density, and wrapped in polyfill batting to keep the fiberglass strands out of the speaker itself.
Also using tubes you have no odd order harmonics in the back wash due to the characteristic of propagation of sound in a closed tube. This means that any sound that might come through will be clarifying sharp even order harmonics. There will be no harmonic distortion since each speaker only handles 6% of the total sound per channel. Each one never plays loud enough to distort in any way.
Its a little know fact that even inexpensive speakers will perform at high QUALITY levels when their volume is turned down low. its when they are required to play above 3 watts that they start to sound badly when they are inexpensive.
Marlboro
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Re: second array already in the works [message #61161 is a reply to message #61157] |
Mon, 12 October 2009 08:31 |
Marlboro
Messages: 403 Registered: May 2009
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Illuminati (1st Degree) |
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Active is way better. And although some people complain that an analog crossover is inferior to a digital, I have no problems with my Rane AC23.
The following is my two cents, and I could easily be wrong.
I sit about 9 feet from my speakers so the 30 inch tweeter line is about at the transition.
I would have some questions as to why you've chosen the speakers that you have. The tweeter only goes down to 3000hz , and thats its FS, which means that it drops like a rock below that. Even with a 24 DB OCTAVE CROSS I should think that you might have some loss of sound in the vicinity of 3000hz due to crossing at its FS rather than above it. The Dayton 20FA seems a better choice due to its not having its FS until 2005hz, which gives a good bit of leeway. You have to figure that the tweeter is going to be screeching at 2500hz and it will probably still be audible.
So with your electronic cross I'd want to cross higher than 3000, more like 3550 hz.
I wonder why the Tmpany's. I would have taken the three inch HV aluminums which go higher and have a higher x-max of 3.0mm. You will have to cross higher than 66, but you probably want to again because you have to expect that crossovers are not exact cutt offs, and your speaker still has to produce sound at half an octave below the cutoff. If you cross them at 66, there is no way that they are going to be producing distortionless sound at 33 hz.
But to each his own, and the system might work out just great for you, after all, people have told me that my system doesn't work, and it does admirably. Just my thoughts.
Marlboro
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