Home » Sponsored » Pi Speakers » Converting 3 Pi to 4 Pi
Converting 3 Pi to 4 Pi [message #53487] Sat, 02 May 2009 06:02 Go to next message
Champion is currently offline  Champion
Messages: 40
Registered: May 2009
Baron
Hi Wayne,

I have asked about using the JBL2226 on the 3Pi awhile ago, and you mentioned that the box size is suitable but the trouble is to rework the cabinet to fit the driver and the port. I wonder if I can cut a big hole (basically remove almost the whole front panel) and replace it with a new one that can fit the 2226 and a new port? Would that work?

I built the 3 pi with the horn placed outside the box so have plenty of space of the mid/woofer.


BTW, have you try out the AE 12" driver?

Thanks.

Re: Converting 3 Pi to 4 Pi [message #53488 is a reply to message #53487] Sat, 02 May 2009 11:40 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne Parham is currently online  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18785
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)

Replacing the front baffle would probably be the best way to do it, actually. Use a port with the same area (6.25" x 3.5") as the four π, but make it a 1.5" shorter to tune the Helmholtz frequency to 38Hz (8.5" long). The JBL 2226 will sound very nice in this cabinet, virtually identical with the stock four π design.

Note - If you mount the tweeter outboard, move the woofer all the way up to the top of the box. The woofer and tweeter should be as close together vertically as possible. Are you using a wood horn?

About the TD12S, I ordered a pair a week or two ago, so I expect them to arrive any day now. I'll evaluate it in the three π cabinet and make any crossover changes necessary to optimize. if it works out, I'll add it as an upgrade option for that model and for the six π cornerhorn.

I am hopeful the TD12S works out, giving the three π and six π models an upgrade path similar to the JBL 2226 in the four π and seven π models.


Re: Converting 3 Pi to 4 Pi [message #53489 is a reply to message #53488] Sun, 03 May 2009 09:04 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Champion is currently offline  Champion
Messages: 40
Registered: May 2009
Baron
Thanks Wayne, that sounds good, at least it is possible to use the 2226.
No I have not upgrade to the wood horn. At $700 each it is a bit out of my reach at this stage, and the mid woofer upgrade is probably my next step when I can afford, then the wood horn.

Thanks again for your help.

Re: Converting 3 Pi to 4 Pi [message #53490 is a reply to message #53489] Sun, 03 May 2009 14:21 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne-o is currently offline  Wayne-o
Messages: 225
Registered: May 2009
Master
Why don't you have the woodhorn plastic injected molded to save us money and an improvement on the H290 ???

Re: Converting 3 Pi to 4 Pi [message #53494 is a reply to message #53490] Mon, 04 May 2009 11:55 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne Parham is currently online  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18785
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)

Injection molding is an expensive process, feasable only for fairly large production runs. I'd really need to expect about 1000 units to be sold to make it worthwhile, so I'd have inventory for a few years. That's something I would consider, but I'm not at all displeased with the H290.

The H290 is a pretty good part. I'm not sure how much attention was paid during its design, if it was on purpose or accident, but whatever the case it does a surprisingly good job in terms of directionality and smoothness of response. It's perfect for this application. From what I've seen, it's better than most of the so called waveguides out there.

The wood horn is only slightly better acoustically, mostly in the vertical. Its larger size helps a great deal reducing mouth reflection when used as a stand-alone horn, not mounted on a baffle. That's its intended use, so it was important to make sure it worked well when sitting on top of a cabinet instead of mounted flush on a baffle. It was designed to be a beautiful piece of art that also worked well acoustically. We make it from wood with interesting grains and cut graceful lines on a CNC machine. It really is a work of art as much as anything else.

You lose the aesthetic appeal when doing an injection mold. I suppose it could work if the whole cabinet was painted. A highly polished paint job, something like a piano finish, perhaps. That could be a good look. But the whole point is that for baffle mounting - where I see an injection molded horn being used - the baffle helps horn loading and it doesn't need the larger mouth for this frequency range. The H290 is a fine horn for baffle mounting.


Re: Converting 3 Pi to 4 Pi [message #53500 is a reply to message #53488] Mon, 04 May 2009 15:29 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jeff p is currently offline  jeff p
Messages: 16
Registered: May 2009
Chancellor
what about the more efficient td12M?

Re: Converting 3 Pi to 4 Pi [message #53501 is a reply to message #53494] Mon, 04 May 2009 15:31 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne-o is currently offline  Wayne-o
Messages: 225
Registered: May 2009
Master
As always Thanks, Just wondering, the woodhorn could be made in fiberglass for considerable less start up cost.

Re: Converting 3 Pi to 4 Pi [message #53503 is a reply to message #53500] Mon, 04 May 2009 15:42 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne Parham is currently online  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18785
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)

It didn't model well, at least not as a drop-in replacement, which is what I was looking for. They might be worth looking at, but I'm starting with what I think is probably the best fit for an upgrade path for this design.


Re: Converting 3 Pi to 4 Pi [message #53504 is a reply to message #53501] Mon, 04 May 2009 15:47 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne Parham is currently online  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18785
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)

I would wholeheartedly encourage DIYers to build their own horns using fiberglass, plaster or wood. It's a lot of fun and brings great pride to the owner. They aren't hard to do, just time consuming. My suggestion would be to copy the H290 and just round-over the mouth. Make it larger to allow for the radius of the roundover and keep the rest the same. That makes an excellent horn that is suitable for use outside a baffle. Good directivity and nice smooth sound.


Re: Converting 3 Pi to 4 Pi [message #53508 is a reply to message #53503] Tue, 05 May 2009 18:25 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
jeff p is currently offline  jeff p
Messages: 16
Registered: May 2009
Chancellor
oh.
I couldn't see any response curves on the website...

Previous Topic: 12Pi is a 4 ohm speaker?
Next Topic: Speaker clamps
Goto Forum:
  


Current Time: Thu Nov 21 11:15:11 CST 2024

Sponsoring Organizations

DIY Audio Projects
DIY Audio Projects
OddWatt Audio
OddWatt Audio
Pi Speakers
Pi Speakers
Prosound Shootout
Prosound Shootout
Miller Audio
Miller Audio
Tubes For Amps
TubesForAmps.com

Lone Star Audiofest