Garland

Maybe the flatter response of the new X-over is tickling the room where it didn't before. Bass traps called for if you can get'm past the wife.

Jim Dombrowski

I used alot of parts I had in the "junk box". All I needed to buy was the Jensen foil 1.5mH coils which I got from Parts Express for about $50. But you can get the 6.8uF caps, the 20uF caps and the 1.5 and .5Mh coils for less than $100 at P.E. I used GE motor run caps which are the best I've heard for the money but kind a bulky. My X-over mounted externally on the rear panels measure 6in.x 15in.x 4in.

G.

I been OK but actually am coming off a year-long withdrawal from audio obsession and am feeling really good but am beginning to slip....! The soldering iron still works but i had to refresh myself on Ohm's Law. My work table is still covered with kids'stuff but I managed this crossover rebuild with out blowing up and the sippin' whiskey was poured only on the successful completion of the project to the accompaniement of Ben Webster and Dave Van Ronk.
Your comments on the brightness- clarity issue elsewhere reminds me of the tweaking that i've done with the compensation circuit on the tweeters. That would be the value of R1 I believe. I started the new crossover with some 20 ohm resistors and found the sound just too laid back, then 15 ohms went in and now the sound was a bit hot in my room, but at last I tried 16 ohms as spec'd and MMMM, just right! You might try a higher value and see what you get! The biggest difference in the sound in my room was how forward the performers were in the soundstage.

G.

JD

The GE caps are for the 20uFs; ie. C- 3,4,and 5. C1 is a mess of parallel caps which are based on a .39 uF Jensen oil cap. C2 is a 6.8 uF Solen metalized polypro. Try the motor runs; they are readily available and sound good.

Garland