I'm getting ready to build my 4pi stage. X-over ready, the wood I need is there. No the Q: I see that the Omegapros are quite 'thick'. The cabinets will be made out of 19mm solid oak. If I flush-mount the omega 15s, I won't have a lot of wood left where the drivers are mounted. Would 5mm be enough? Optione that I have are either to re-enforce the baffle from inside, or just not flush-mount completely....

Thanks for any feeback

Roland

For these large drivers, you need a pretty thick front baffle if you flush mount. I've used 1" MDF for "thin" drivers or double 3/4" for larger drivers on the baffle. Once you route out the recess for flush mount, you're still left with a good 3/4" of material to attach the driver.

3/4" is plenty if you use T-nuts and bolts. More would be better if using wood screws. As for your 5mm, I'd see that as risky. Remember, you're looking to do more than just hold the driver in place. You want to screw the thing in tight so there's no air leakage and that can put a lot of pressure on the material behind the driver.

Mind you, you don't have to re-enforce the entire baffle. Just the ring around the driver will do. Above photo is my driver re-enforcement, front baffle bracing combo.

Gar.

Roland

Since we'll talking about the woofer, I don't think it's absolutely necessary to flush mount it. It does go up to 1600Hz, but at that point, the soundwaves are narrowed to approx 90 degrees and should not be affected by the driver edge.

With that said, you did mention you're building this out of solid oak, which means you're after a nice looking cabinet. Flush-mount drivers do give a speaker a more finished and professional look.

Gar.

Bracing is sorted, will make some re-inforcement to the 1/5" part though.

Roland

What amps are you using these with?

One is to recess the driver into the baffle, which we already discussed. In your case, you'll need re-enforcement behind the baffle.

The other is to raise the baffle area around the driver up to meet flush with the driver! Cut the driver hole into the baffle and use the full 19 mm to mount the driver (T-nuts recommended). Then use contrasting wood (or other material) to cut a ring that sits flush against the driver edge, framing the driver. Round-over the outer edge of the ring/frame and you have a decorative finished look, and reduce diffraction (if it does in fact apply here).

Roland

Roland