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Re: I stand on my statement [message #46918 is a reply to message #46907] Tue, 17 May 2005 15:54 Go to previous messageGo to next message
GrantMarshall is currently offline  GrantMarshall
Messages: 77
Registered: May 2009
Viscount
Hi Eric.

I hear you on the costs side of the equation.

I hope I'm not abusing forum etiquette by sending a link to a specific vendor, and Wayne feel free to blow this away if I am, but here is a like to the little amps. Note an optional power supply costs around $20 putting total cost around $50 an amp plus shipping and tax.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=300-952

A review of this little beauty can be found at:

http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/sonicimpact/t_3.html

Looks interesting for sure without breaking the bank.


Grant.



Re: Chip amp [message #46919 is a reply to message #46917] Wed, 18 May 2005 04:58 Go to previous messageGo to next message
spkrman57
Messages: 522
Registered: May 2009
Illuminati (1st Degree)
Eric,

You can take this hobby as far as you want, or as simple as you want. I have always found the more difficult way finds me!

By the way, you can go passive crossover between the preamp and amp to save money. Slight loss of gain, but usually not enough to be a problem.


Ron

Re: Active Crossover [message #46920 is a reply to message #46903] Wed, 18 May 2005 07:39 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Malcolms is currently offline  Malcolms
Messages: 6
Registered: May 2009
Esquire
The amps I have are Quicksilver 8417 mono blocs, which I have modded to accept either, 8417's 6550's or el34's. With the el34 it puts out about 35-40 watts. All I change is the bias. I would like to know more about adjusting the slopes Wayne was talking about. What settings or freq. I would use.


Malcolm

Re: Active Crossover [message #46921 is a reply to message #46920] Wed, 18 May 2005 08:05 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne Parham is currently offline  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18791
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)

There are crossovers that come with the kits and are shown in the plans. If you're going to do your own active setup, you'll want to check summing through the crossover overlap region. There are several good solutions, all of them asymmetrical.


Re: Active Crossover [message #46922 is a reply to message #46921] Wed, 18 May 2005 09:39 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Malcolms is currently offline  Malcolms
Messages: 6
Registered: May 2009
Esquire
Thanks for getting back Wayne. I already purchased the behringer. It's supposed to be able to configure everthing through software or manually. I just don't know exactly what values to input. check it out if you have time at the behringer sight. It's the dcx2496. It's also the one Newform research sells as a package with their speakers.

Malcolm

Re: Active Crossover [message #46927 is a reply to message #46922] Wed, 18 May 2005 21:45 Go to previous message
Wayne Parham is currently offline  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18791
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)

You might use something like Speaker Workshop to set it up. Watch the overlap range between 1kHz and 3kHz, and adjust the LF and HF curves for best response. The mechanical slopes of the two subsystems are different, one being the roll-on slope of a horn and the other being the roll-off slope of a direct radiator, well into collapsing DI. That's why the electrical slopes you'll want will also be different.

You'll find a second or third order LF low-pass combines well with a third or fourth-order HF high-pass, with crossover points slightly different, like LF at 1300 and HF at 1900. You could model the system, but it's a lot of work. Might be easier to just download Speaker Workshop and use it. At the frequencies of interest, it works pretty well.


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