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Theater 4 pi questions (long) [message #46216] Mon, 31 January 2005 06:29 Go to next message
Frank Mena is currently offline  Frank Mena
Messages: 26
Registered: May 2009
Chancellor
I finally finished my 4 pi's and am generally quite satisfied for my first attempt to build speakers. Thanks you Wayne for a great product!

I'm in the process of finishing the Foreplay and starting the Paramours. In the meantime I've hooked up the theater 4 pi's to an old small bookshelf CD player to hear how they sound. Unfortunately, the midrange sounds a little veiled, almost like a small blanket is over the speaker but the highs are nice and strong and clear. Should I wait until the foreplay/paramour combo is finished to further tune the speakers? Or is this a matter of break -in? I have not had many hours on these speakers at all. Perhaps 4-5 hrs in total.

Also, when I switch the speaker wires leads at the back of the cabinet it makes no difference to the sound of the speaker. This leads me to believe I've wired something incorrectly. Is that so? Would lining all sides of the speaker help with the midrange or should I take out some R-13 insulation?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks
Frank Mena

Theater 4 pi thoughts [message #46217 is a reply to message #46216] Mon, 31 January 2005 07:34 Go to previous message
Wayne Parham is currently offline  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18787
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)

I would start by connecting the speakers to a high-fidelity amplifier and see what you think then. I think you'll like the sound of your speakers when you do that. I'm not saying they're the end-all and beat-all of audio, but they are nice and midrange is one of their strengths, in my opinion.

Put R13 insulation on one side, the bottom and the back. Don't put in too much or too little, just a single sheet on opposing sides. If you haven't braced well, cut some 1x2's so that they fit snug across front to back and side to side. Glue a few of those in so that the cabinet is solid. If it isn't braced well, it will sound throaty in the lower midrange.

About wiring, I'd be happy to go through that with you. The tweeter should be connected to the wire with the block of parts on one end. The block of parts connects to the crossover, and you'll want to lay it on the R13 as a vibration isolation pad. You can also use a silicon rubber and fasten it to the nearest coil and the 22uF cap on the PCB. Goop that stuff up to make a little rubber bumper and press the resistor block into it. But first, let's make sure it's wired right. The tin lead goes to the (+) lead on the tweeter and (T+) on the crossover. Copper goes to (-). Make sure the spade lugs are snug, but not so tight they're impossible to push on. You can break lugs by forcing them too much.

The midwoofer is easy. Use the straight wire and connect (+) on the woofer to (W+) on the crossover, and woofer (-) to crossover (W-). The Zobel is the part with the big aluminum resistor block and the capacitor. It only has two leads, connect one to the woofer's (-) lead and the other to the woofer's (+) lead. Again, make sure the spade lugs are tight but not too much. The Delta 15 is really easy to break spade lugs on that little connector panel. The connector panel isn't much more than cardboard, so it's easy to snap. Take it easy on those, and support them as you press them on.

The connector panel red post connects with a straight wire to the crossover's (+) input, and black to (-). Use the red post to connect to your amplifier's positive connection. The way you can tell if you're phased wrong, is to face the two speakers together and play some music with bass. If they're phased wrong, you'll still hear sound but not as much bass. Try it sometime.

Let me know if you have any trouble.


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