My speaker project is going quite slow...but we're getting to the point where we will be staining and finishing them soon. Could you please explain (again) what the process is...the more specific you can be...the better. Sometimes I can be thick as a cinder block!

thanks again!

Dan (gonefishin)

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Some ideas to get you started for spraying a finish. You first have to have all your prep work in order. Then choose a good material that will be correct for your application. This summery is for Lacquer and does not take into account the pros and cone of any other types of finish. There are a vast amount of wood finishes available today. Varnish, Shellac, Polyurethanes, Water based, Oils, and Waxes to name a few. We are just going to talk about Lacquer for now since it sprays on easily. Builds and dries fast, and is easy to work with.

First we have preparation. Remember that a clear wood finish will not mask any flaws in the wood. In fact, stains or finish will accentuate the flaw. So a good fit between parts is a must and sanding with the grain using 220 paper helps out. Work your way up to 220 grit in steps. Unless you have some major sanding to do, avoid using 80 grit. Start off with 100 grit, sand again with 150 and then with 220. If you’re using pre-veneered plywood then you should start with 150 grit paper. Random orbit sanders are a great thing but always end your sanding adventure with hand sanding in the direction of the grain with garnet sand paper. Or, better yet, do no sanding and use a scraper.

Now that our cabinet is finish ready we can choose a finish. Sherwin Williams has local stores in all big cities and carries professional wood working products. SW Low-VOC is a good lacquer. I don’t use the water white lacquers because I prefer the amber mellow tone you will get in a few months. If you want a finish that will have virtually no yellowing, use the a water based Lacquer/Varnish/Polyurethane. For the ultimate in amber and mellow ageing tones, use Varnish. I only use Spar Varnish since it is also waterproof and you will never have water damage from a open window, plant or drinking glass. Minwax Helmsman is adequate choice for Spar Varnish. Mohawk, Crystalac, Pianolac, McFadden and Target are some suppliers for quality wood finishes, to name a few.

I use Hood Finishing products, Magna-Shield lacquer. You can look at their products at http://www.hoodfinishing.com. This is a Pre-Catalyzed lacquer that has 40% solids and complete burn in between coats so sanding is not required between coats as with polyurethane or varnish. For added depth use 75% sheen and rub it down to a satin luster. Use a self sealing lacquer because they sand easily. Your first coat will be a sealer and lock the wood fibers down and "pop" the grain. Even with careful sanding some of the wood fibers will be locked in an upright or out of alignment position. This is why after applying the first coat of a finish you will have some fuzzy texture to your project and it will need smoothing.

The better spray gun you can afford the less headache you will have. Having said that, there are a few HLVP conversion guns on the market for $100 that will suit your needs quite nicely. HLVP is a must. The stuff stinks and you don’t want it bouncing all over. More importantly, finish is not cheap and you don’t need to be spraying it all over hells half acres. When your done, Clean your gun.

Good finish techniques that will give you a durable finish as well as a rich look consist of 5 coats and a little elbow grease.

Did you know Boiled Linseed oil isn't even boiled? Great stuff and will give you a super finish at a fraction the cost of boutique oil's. Boiled is the same as raw linseed oil with the addition of chemical polymers to aid and speed the drying process. Linseed oil is also one of the most volatile oil's to spontaneously combust when on a rag or cloth. Seriously, The drying rate is accelerated to the point where it absorbs oxygen and builds heat. Always lay out your linseed oil rags flat until they are dry and hard. Balling up the oil soaked rag will surely result in a fire

Don't be scared, spray away!

when in doubt use a fine grade wiping polyurethane
The Horror!

dJ

do people actually buy purple sandpaper? the horror. Call up Hood Finishing and get a catalogue. They have all types finishes, stains, sandpaper and supplies. you can buy stuff buy the gallon if you don't need drums and pails.

My personal favorite if I'm going to brush a finish on is Varnish. Shellac is fun and dries a LOT faster but the varnish is just so nostalgic. I used to use a lot of Zipguard polyurethane years ago. Never see it and don't even know how long it's been gone. The nice thing about Spar Varnish is its made with Tung oil and a lot of other good components in oils. Its weather resistant and has been used on boats, outdoor woodwork, counters and bar tops for years. I like to use on Coffee/End/Dinning tables, bathroom & cucina woodwork, and especially window sills. Minwax makes a semi gloss Helmsman brand that is easy to get and works great.

I don't think the Helmsman appropriate for the motor yacht,
But I wouldn't use $85 a gallon Spar Varnish on my window sills either.

-dJ

hmm...I think I may just attach that woodworking 101 thread here...and I'll have myself a nice little FAQ.

thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:D

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• woodworking 101

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