I think it's great your going to make some wood horns. There are a few devices you can use for connecting a driver to the wodd flare that you built. Fane makes some adaptors and Selenium makes adaptors also. These could be used in some fashion for a fit up of the compression driver to the horn flare. There are also some older JBL adaptors that are 1" to 2". I find the JBL models a little long and for that matter, adaptors and mounting flanges by any of these companies have not been to my liking. So, I have my own design and specifications made. They are available, and you can see pricing and detials on the pricing page of the www.woodhorn.com web page.

You may also find it rather difficult to get a compression driver to perform well in the lower range your looking for. Although some models will spec out to 300 or 400 hz. Its also possible to build a horn that will give you that cut off. What you may find is that even though a combination of horn and driver will spec out or test to give you suitible results. The sound you hear may not be desirable.

I have had fantastic results using 2" drivers on larger horns with a crossover point of 700hz (give or take 50hz). This is a very dynamic combination. I like to use 1500-2000hz crossover point for 1" compression drivers.

You could built a larger horn that is about 400 x 400mm. use an 8" cone driver and have a great range of use from 200hz - 2000hz.

Bill

*note in my experience 2370's need less compensation than many other horns. A .33 or .22mF should work fine, but that depends on the compression driver. I remember thinking the P Audio had good top end when I considered it a while back. It should do great.

Have fun!
Thomas

Are the prices in US dollars? Each flange for 1"ers is US$135... a bit high for me, I'm in australia so converted around AU$270 or something + postage. But I cant resist the look of the wood horns! So many decisions......

I've seen your main speakers on the site using the 15" 2226H, and the 8" horn loaded speaker (oh yea what brand/model are these?) and 1" compression driver. Awesome! But how did you horn load the 8", do you need throat flanges etc? From the pic, it looks like the whole cone is visible, I dont understand how the horn does anything for it!

Do you think a scanspeak 8" would work well horn loaded? They make some pretty powerful drivers I hear, plus I can get them locally.

BTW: The insturctions on making the horn on your site, I believe it goes to 800Hz or something, what dispersion pattern is this? (90x40 degrees?). I also noticed there were no measurements for the wood there! Makes it a bit difficult for me to build! Thought it might just be you dont want to give away your ideas, etc, thats ok i understand!

> better crossover below 200Hz

I'd assume not with the compression driver ?? !!!!!!!

Is there any sonic differences between plastic/ABS and metal horns?

Probably said this a million times, I'll say it again though lol you've been a big help so far and thanks for your time.

Adrian

>*note in my experience 2370's need less compensation than many
> other horns. A .33 or .22mF should work fine, but that depends on
> the compression driver. I remember thinking the P Audio had good
> top end when I considered it a while back. It should do great.

Hmmm, I've just went back to Waynes compensation figures, it says use a 0.47uF bypass cap to remove attenuation on the top octave with a resistor picked from the chart below:

Ohms Decibels Power
===============================
0.0 0dB 100%
2.5 2.4dB 58%
5.0 4.2dB 38%
7.5 5.4dB 27%
10.0 7.0dB 20%
15.0 9.2dB 12%
25.0 12.3dB 5.9%
34.0 14.4dB 3.6%
37.5 15.1dB 3.1%
41.0 15.7dB 2.6%
50.0 17.2dB 1.9%

You've told me 33 or .22mF should be fine with this horn/driver combo, is this for the bypass cap? How do I convert mF to uF? Oh yea, what sort of caps should I use? (greencaps, MKT's, electrolics or however you spell it lol).

I just realized I dont know how to pick what resistor to use from the chart above lol. Although wayne said a 25 or 50ohm in most cases should work well. How can I determine from the above what is needed?

Thanks! Adrian

Adrian

The attenuator value chart you posted works very well in many cases and it is simple. But it is perhaps an oversimplification, and you would probably be better served to work from one of my existing crossover designs than to use this simplified chart. So check your E-Mail address because I've sent you the schematic for the π crossover. This circuit will do exactly what you want and provide the response curve you need.

As for horn material, that will determine how it sounds when the mouth rings like a bell. If braced and damped properly, it doesn't matter much. But some metal horns ring when struck, and this can become audible when excited by music content.

Thanks!

Adrian

Adrian