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cabinet makers, please help [message #39250] Wed, 27 November 2002 10:20 Go to next message
pmwoodward is currently offline  pmwoodward
Messages: 4
Registered: May 2009
Esquire
Hi, I am going to be building my first DYI kit, the 2 Pi Towers. does anyone have some sort of detailed plans? In particualar, bracing info. I have been looking at the pictures in the forum, but, there is no real detail on how to assemble them.

thanks, Paul

Bracing and assembly [message #39253 is a reply to message #39250] Wed, 27 November 2002 14:10 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Wayne Parham is currently offline  Wayne Parham
Messages: 18726
Registered: January 2001
Illuminati (33rd Degree)
Here's a collection of posts about "bracing." I think you'll find some good suggestions contained in the list. Do a search for "veneer" or "joints" or whatever else, 'cause some very good cabinetmakers have discussed these things in some detail.
Re: Bracing and assembly [message #39254 is a reply to message #39253] Wed, 27 November 2002 15:45 Go to previous messageGo to next message
bmar is currently offline  bmar
Messages: 346
Registered: May 2009
Grand Master
This is not any kind of print, but you can see the bracing arangment I use to build cabinets. The braces should be snug but not enough to buldge the cabinet. all you want is a slight preload. I use MDF for braces on veneered cabinets over MDF. I make an L shape for the brace and tie the two braces together. This cabinet is a 2pi tower and has 2 L braced and 2 flat braced. none of the braces are inline or repetitions of another. Tipically a hardwood is used for braces such as poplar, ash, oak, maple. (something cheap) but I like to use the L configuration which makes it possible to use MDF or Ply materials. It also stabelizes the cabinet internally so you dont need a backer veneer. There are some people that also use ply and make complete interal and or corner gussets with a series of holes drilled through the gusset. when time is money, we dont do that. all the bracing in this cabinet adds up to .15 cubic foot. so in a large cabinet its not a problem. smaller boxes need less bracing too. hope this helps, and remember to leave clearance for the driver's to fit around your braces.

Bill


Mortise and tenon [message #39267 is a reply to message #39254] Thu, 28 November 2002 18:27 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jeff g is currently offline  jeff g
Messages: 23
Registered: May 2009
Chancellor
i was thinking of using a mortise and tenon technique with ash braces into 3/4 inch mdf frame pieces (2 front-back and 2 side-side). any advantages or disadvantages to this approach?

also, why should the braces not be in line or repeated?

thanks


Re: Mortise and tenon [message #39268 is a reply to message #39267] Thu, 28 November 2002 22:45 Go to previous messageGo to next message
bmar is currently offline  bmar
Messages: 346
Registered: May 2009
Grand Master
mortise and tenon would be great. perhaps more time consuming than needed. the braces are mis aligned so there is less chance of standing waves inside the cabinet as well as the unbraced panel areas inbetween the braces are unequal. this will give less chance of any one resonant frequency to originate from multiple sources. some of the same reasons speakers are not made from equally dimensioned cabinets.
Re: Mortise and tenon [message #39398 is a reply to message #39268] Mon, 09 December 2002 08:46 Go to previous message
pmwoodward is currently offline  pmwoodward
Messages: 4
Registered: May 2009
Esquire
Thank You! Bill, as they say 'a picture is worth a thousand words'. Your picture that you provided makes what I need to do MUCH clearer!

thank, Paul

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