Having decided to order the Tower 2 Pi kits from you, I am wondering if any of the following "refinements" would be of any demonstrable value. Please understand that I prefer to follow the basic plans 100% unless you see value in any of the following:

1) Piezo cone damar treatment to "soften" perceived shrillness. I assume that many people who have performed this tweak probably had woofers that were less efficient than the Piezo, and merely deadened the tweeter to be less efficient and, in turn, that makes it sound "better" to them.

2) Dampening the frames of both motors to reduce vibration.

3) Use of a rear mounted screw/dowel from the back of the cabinet connected to the woofer to help control resonance/vibration peaks.

4) Substitution of "black hole" or felt for the standard fiberglass insulation. Controls backwave better?

5) Use of T-nuts to provide desired tension coupling of the drivers to the baffle.

6) Radius the inside of the woofer baffle hole to provide better air flow.

7) Speaker spikes to couple the speakers to the floor.

Wayne, what gasket material is best for the drivers? Are there any other "tweaks" that you may recommend?

Many thanks,
BobCat

2. Damping the frames of both motors to reduce vibration couldn't hurt.

3. Additional bracing never hurts. I don't think you'll find any benefit in adding it here, but it never hurts.

4. I've tried lots of stuffing materials and always come back to R13. The biggest thing is spacing away from the boundary, so thickness is important.

5. Using T-nuts is always a good idea. If you don't plan to re-enter the cabinet very often, wood screws are fine for lightweight components. But the more times you tighten and loosen a wood screw, the more weakening stress and wear is applied to the threads. T-Nuts and metal screws are much more durable.

6. You can radius the baffle cutouts if you want to, but I'd consider this a matter of aesthetics more than acoustics.

7. As for spikes, some people like them, others don't. I think it depends as much on your room, floor and floor covering as anything else.

Extra gaskets aren't needed because they come with the speakers. You can seal them with silicon if you wish, but I wouldn't unless you found them to be leaking. If you cut round holes as indicated in the plans and your baffle surface is flat, no additional gasket material is necessary.